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^ 




BREAD 
FACTS 



SECOND EDITION 



RESEARCH PRODUCTS DE 

WARD BAKING CC 

NEW YORK 



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Copyright 1920 
by 
Ward Baking Company 



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INTRODUCTION 

The American baking industry found itself 
during the war. The fundamental importance 
of bread as the main food, the lowest-price 
food, the food which contains more of the 
elements of nutrition needed in the daily 
diet of both young and old than any other 
single food of general consumption was pro- 
claimed by government agencies in every 
country. With sufficient bread and milk the 
children were safe from hunger; were well fed. 
Bread became as it always has been, the main 
food of the soldier. With more bread 
during the war the people were better fed 
for both health and labor, than they are 
generally fed. 

Consumers were taught the larger food 
value of bread during the war days. Business 
men from all ranks, called to help in the 
mobilization of the country's resources or in 
the equitable distribution and conservation 
of the food supplies, saw the facts as never 
before and with common consent placed bread 
in the front rank of national industrial 



BREAD FACTS 



importance. Food scientists, from govern- 
ment and state departments, from universities, 
large and small, and from private laboratories 
turned their first attention to bread and 
emphasized it as the one food to be protected 
and an adequate supply maintained. House- 
wives, through direct governmental, commer- 
cial and trade publications, were told about 
the food value of bread, about its depend- 
ability as the main food for the family — ^were 
brought to look at bread in a new, a larger 
and a more important food light — amounting 
to an advertising value that could not have 
been purchased at any price. 

The economies of milling and baking were 
studied by both governmental commissions 
and by masters in the economics of practical 
business. From the standpoint of soundness, 
service and the absence of profiteering not 
another industry stood a better, a cleaner test. 
The economy and the better general quality 
of bread produced from the modern methods 
of the modern baker were compared by these 
same disinterested agencies, with the wastes, 
often baking failures and higher costs of most 



BREAD FACTS 



of the home baking — ^again to the credit of the 
baking industry. 

Chemistry and physics, bacteriology and 
the other sciences as they apply to the growing 
of cereals, to the transportation and storage 
of grain against spoilage, to milling, to baking 
and to the accessory materials — yeast and 
yeast foods, milk and malt extracts, sugars, 
fats and salt — were put to work in these 
fields as never before. The pioneer scientific 
work formerly done by the few was at last 
acclaimed as a benefaction. Today, domestic 
science workers are seriously studying bread 
with more of direct interest in the work, the 
methods and product of the bakery. Milling 
companies and bakers are turning, with more 
dependence, to laboratory control as an aid to 
practical experience. Schools and colleges are 
giving the sciences, as applied to cereals and 
bread, more preeminence in their courses. 
Out of it all the American baking industry has 
established the American Institute of Baking 
as the cap sheaf for continuous, deep and 
thorough research, for the teaching of sound 
and practical facts about bread and baking. 



BREAD FACTS 



and for service to all who seek the aid of 
science in baking problems. 

At no other time has the American house- 
wife who does her own baking, or who does 
not put enough bread into the daily diet of 
her family been more receptive towards the 
good baker and good bread. 

With all these facts before us we have con- 
ceived the idea of assembling for the baker 
some practical hints on better bread making, 
the food value of bread, applied science in the 
bakery and other important facts, all of which 
we have published in this little volume and 
which we hope may prove of some service to 
the trade in general and be a modest but 
valuable instrument in improving the value 
of the baker's loaf and help speed the coming 
of the day when the housewife will rely en- 
tirely on the baker for her daily supply of the 
"staff of life". 



BREAD FACTS 



THE AMERICAN LOAF OF BREAD 

The perfect loaf of bread has no written 
rules. Science may find and describe the whys 
but an artist makes the loaf. In no other 
industry are there so many variables. The 
flour, the yeast, the time and temperature, the 
proving and baking must all be fitted one into 
the other. In no other industry has the work 
of standardization been more difficult. A 
formula made out for one shop does not work 
in another, unless the variable factors have 
been stabilized towards one standard of ingred- 
ients and method. If the public could know 
the earnest care that goes into making a good 
loaf of bread they could not keep from univer- 
sal appreciative response. 

There are two points to clear up in the public 
mind about bread ; one is volume and the other 
absorption. Volume, if not carried to the 
point of over proving, means lightness, digest- 
ibility and better bread. Bakers have com- 
peted among themselves for volume. This 
competition has been giving the public a slice 
of bread in which the starch and protein 
particles are better separated, one from the 



8 BREAD FACTS 

Other, ready for the action of the human diges- 
tive processes. What is wanted in bread is 
that each and every particle shall be opened, 
opened to the fermentation actions which ren- 
der it more wholesome, opened to the heat 
which renders it better baked. So the baker 
who studies expansion, works for expansion 
and gets expansion, without sacrifice of flavor 
— expansion with texture, even, finely divided 
texture, silky texture, with the bread still full 
of life, taste and wheat flavor — is doing as 
much for the human stomach as for his indus- 
try. Volume, with texture and flavor is the 
first standard, both for the baker and the con- 
sumer. 

Another important point is absorption. 
Much bread is turned out of inferior quality 
because the yeast and its actions have not had 
enough moisture during the fermentation. It 
is easier to handle a dry loaf, than one more 
moist. Most doughs are too dry, and the 
resulting bread lacks in the eating qualities 
desired by the consumer. The yeast must have 
proper moisture, sufficient oxygen and proper 
food. Yeast foods are treated under a separate 



BREAD FACTS 



chapter. But it may be stated here that the 
perfect loaf must have, among other things, 
sufficient absorption and oxygen during the 
mixing and fermentation. 

Proper mixing is another factor. The gluten 
is conserved and developed in the mixing, or 
injured, according to the perfection of the 
method. The high speed mixer produces a 
result which hand mixing cannot attain. 

Time and temperature, the strength and 
quantity of the yeast, fitted into the baking 
quality of the flour, systematic operation 
of the shop according to schedule, the proof, 
the temperature and condition of the heat 
and moisture in the oven, the humidity 
under which the doughs are raised, proofed 
and baked are, all, factors entering into 
the kind of loaf that wins and holds the 
consumer. 

Wheat flour is made into many products and 
combined with many materials — ^sugar, nuts, 
fruits, spices, eggs, icings and other ingredients 
to make it into a finished food; but the stan- 
dard product from the bakery is the every day 
loaf, which the consumer will eat at each meal 



lo BREAD FACTS 



I 

not 



with Other food and not tire of. The typical 
American loaf is developed from what may be 
termed the American home-made loaf. Its 
standards of excellence may be described as 
follows : 

. Full expansion with the top pulling, but 
pulled loose from the sides. 

2. Golden brown, or darker brown, depend- 
ing upon oven steam, but in all cases showing 
that the sugars in the flour and added to the 
dough have not been used up through exces- 
sive fermentation. Perfect bloom is indicative 
of the sweet and better flavor. When this is 
absent the loaf has less flavor and less qualities 
which make it palatable. 

3. When the loaf is cut open, fine, silky 
texture, with the dough cells finely divided, 
should accompany the full expansion. The 
fine division of the cell walls puts the bread in 
better condition for digestion and is character- 
istic of a properly conducted fermentation. 
The color of the crumb, or inside of the loaf, 
should be clear white, with life, due to both the 
finer division of the cell walls and to absence 
of detrimental fermentation effect upon the 
flour. The crumb should not crumble ; that is, 
fall away in parts when it is cut, but should be 



BREAD FACTS ii 



firm. The flavor should be the sweet and 
suggestive nutty flavor of wheat. 

4. Such a loaf has good keeping qualities, 
and is palatable several days after baking. 

The standard American loaf is baked in a 
pan, with a thin, rather than a thick crust as 
distinguished from the types of hearth breads 
where the amount of crust equals the amount 
of inside crumb. It is true that there is a large 
consumption of rolls and rye breads and 
breads of theVienna or French type, but day in 
and day out the American public prefer the 
type of loaf which has been developed from the 
kind that "Mother" made and baked in a pan. 

The state of civilization and the prosperity 
of a country can be judged by its bread. Every- 
where, effort is made to leaven it so that it will 
be more digestible. In parts of Sweden the rye 
bread is baked at harvest and stored away. In 
other Northern countries the bread is baked 
into thin cakes, on hot stones. The Persian 
makes a bread from rice and sour milk. In 
many of the Oriental countries sour milk and 
dough are set as the starter for the leavening 
of bread. This method is known in our South 



11 BREAD FACTS 



as salt rising bread. The leavening is a bacterial 
or biological action rather than a yeast or 
plant action. 

But it is to the standard American loaf that 
the baker in this country can well turn for 
success, sticking to a few types, centering on 
quality in the few, rather than on large variety. 



BREAD FACTS ly 

THE FOOD VALUE OF BREAD 

Life is built up in steps; first from the soil, 
in the form of the plants; and then from the 
plant into the form of animal, and most animal 
life goes farther and feeds on other animals. 
Even in human nutrition the most economic 
way is to utilize, direct, larger quantities of 
grain, roots and plants for food. Take a 
bushel of wheat, for example: The human 
system converts over 90 per cent into nutri- 
tive value. But, if the bushel of wheat or 
other grain is used in the production of 
animal foods, the cow converts eighteen per 
cent into milk food; the pig fifteen and one- 
half per cent into pork food ; poultry five and 
one-tenth per cent in the production of eggs, 
and four and two-tenths per cent in the pro- 
duction of dressed poultry; the lamb three 
and two-tenths per cent, and no wool; the 
sheep two and six-tenths per cent, together 
with wool, while the steer turns only two and 
eight-tenths per cent of the grain into beef. 
So that if a nation has but a given quantity 
of grain foods with which to meet an abnormal 
demand, or if it has a high cost of living 



14 BREAD FACTS 

problem, the people are vitally cx)ncerned 
with that method of utilization which will 
furnish the maximum amount of nutrition 
for human consumption. In times of peace, 
as well as war, bread, with its proper balance 
with other needed food elements, constitutes 
the economic food answer. 

The time has come when we have sufficient 
of dependable knowledge about foods, about 
the nutritive value of bread, about the daily 
food needs, to go to the public with definite 
statements of the amount of bread that should, 
for health, strength, proper nourishment and 
proper economy, be put into the daily diet. In 
this direction of definite advertising lies not 
only opportunity for increased sales but for 
service to the public. How much bread 
should the child, the growing boy and girl, 
the man or woman at work with muscle or 
with mind eat each day? With what food com- 
binations can bread be made the most ap- 
petizing to the taste and most nourishing? 
How does bread best combine with fruits and 
vegetables, with jams and jellies, with soups 
and meats, with eggs and puddings, with 



BREAD FACTS 15 



butter and other fats, with syrups and honey ? 
What does it need to supplement its vitamines 
and mineral salts ? A study of such facts leads 
to but one conclusion — that each individual 
should eat from a pound to a pound and a half 
of bread per day, to be well and economically 
fed, and that the public can be convinced of 
this fact if the baker will come to know and 
proclaim the full food facts. 

The daily need in food elements are in 
order of quantity: 

Carbohydrates 
Fats 
Proteins 
Mineral salts 
Vitamines 

The authorities in nutrition agree that the 
average adult should eat daily: 

Carbohydrates 500 Grams 

Protein 100 

Fats 50 

Salt (Sodium Chloride) 10 

Other Mineral Salts 9.85 

Vitamines (quantities not determined). 



« « 



« 4 



» » 



» » 



i6 



BREAD FACTS 



One pound of bread furnishes: 

Carbohydrates 240 Grams 

Protein 40.5 

Fats 1 2. 1 

Salt (Sodium Chloride) 6.7 

Other mineral salts 2.78 

The daily mineral salt needs are stated to be : 

Salt (Sodium Chloride) 10 Grams 

Potash 4.37 

Phosphates 3.25 

Sulphur 1.2 

Lime i.o 

Magnesia 02 

Iron 01 

Iodine, Fluorline, Bromine 
and other minerals — small quantities. 

One pound of white bread furnishes in 
mineral salts: 

Salt (Sodium Chloride) 6.7 Grams 

Sulphur 1.08 

Phosphates 98 

Potash 43 

Lime 14 

Magnesia 14 

Bromine 008 

Iron 004 

Other minerals traces 



BREAD FACTS 17 



Now bread furnishes the frame work of the 
daily food need. And what the consumer 
wants to know is just how to build onto the 
frame work; just what other foods to add to 
make the diet complete. The facts, free facts, 
facts with the weight of undoubted authority, 
facts gleaned through years of patient and 
world-wide study and experiment, are waiting 
now for the baker to fit them to his bread. 

Bread is not only a valuable and economic 
source of carbohydrates but wheat bread is 
also the source of the best cereal proteins. 
Wheat bread is then both a carbohydrate and 
protein food, together with valuable quantities 
of phosphates, potash, sulphur and the sodium 
and chlorine added from the salt used in bread 
making. White bread fumishes the more 
digestible form of these carbohydrates and 
proteins. Yeast bread, properly mixed, prop- 
erly fermented and properly baked fur- 
nishes these food elements in still more digest- 
ible form. This is the reason why yeast bread 
is the preferred form of bread in all lands 
where wheat and rye are available — wheat and 
rye because of their gluten content which 



i8 BREAD FACTS 

distinguish them from other cereals. The yeast 
not only raises the bread but its enzymes act 
on both the starch and the protein, rendering 
these food elements more digestible and more 
available for human nutrition. 

As pointed out, carbohydrates are the chief 
daily need in human nutrition. Bread fur- 
nishes the cheapest, yeast bread the most 
digestible, form of cereal carbohydrates ; and 
in depending on bread for the energy-giving 
carbohydrates, consumers can also obtain half of 
their required protein supply. 

Hunt and Atwater in Farmers' Bulletin 824 
of the United States Department of Agricul- 
ture have summarized the needs in nutrition, 
especially from the standpoint of sufficient 
protein, with reference to bread as follows: 

"Since the protein foods include many of the 
more expensive foods in common use, and since 
an adequate supply of protein is essential to 
the growth and upkeep of the body, it is 
especially important for the housekeeper to 
know how much her family needs and to be 
able to choose the materials which, in her 
particular circumstances, will best provide the 
proper kind and amount." 



BREAD FACTS iq 

"The foods usually classed as rich in pro- 
tein are : Milk and cheese, eggs, meat, poul- 
try and fish; dried legumes, such as peas, 
beans, cowpeas, soy beans, and peanuts; and 
almond and some other nuts. Wheat, oats, 
and some other cereals also furnish consider- 
able amounts of protein. Milk is the best 
source of protein for children. There is about 
one-fourth ounce of protein in each of the fol- 
lowing: One glass of milk, one egg, i 1-2 to 2 
ounces of meat, i ounce of cheese, and 13 
ounces of bread. A man at moderate mus- 
cular work is believed to need about 3 1-2 
ounces of protein a day, and a family consist- 
ing of father, mother and three small children 
about twelve ounces a day." 

*7f is possible to plan an attractive and whole- 
some diet in which one-half of the necessary pro- 
tein is supplied by bread and other cereal foods 
which are relatively cheap, ^* 

In discussing the relative food values, the 
true approach is to know just what food ele- 
ments are necessary in building up and running 
the human machine, and allow each product to 
present itself, on its merits, for its proper place 
in the building. It is from such approach that 
yeast-wheat bread, measured by all other 



20 BREAD FACTS 



foods in its class, ranks first in the food value 
of the food elements which it supplies. Nor 
is there need for controversy over whole wheat 
bread versus white bread. The whole wheat 
has more of the mineral salts and more fiber. 
The baker bakes both kinds of bread ; but as a 
standard for the daily diet, the consumer pre- 
fers and demands the white bread. The con- 
sumer can, at will, select the whole wheat 
bread. 

There have been many reasons for the separ- 
ation of the wheat berry in milling. The germ 
of the wheat spoils ; the bran of the wheat does 
not yield its nutriment to human digestion as 
readily as do the inside portions of the berry. 
Though backed by the earnest and disinter- 
ested propaganda of food writers, though ad- 
vertised at extensive expense by baking firms 
the demand for whole wheat bread is limited. 
All can agree that the germ is rich in protein 
and fat, and the bran rich in some of the 
mineral salts needed in human nutrition. 
And here lies opportunity for scientific devel- 
opments in the form of grain extracts which 
will still further separate the valuable elements 



BREAD FACTS ai 



of the wheat offal from the fiber. The human 
machine needs fiber, but the human taste seems 
to prefer the more succulent fiber from green 
vegetables and ripe fruits. Differing rations 
are needed for differing needs. The large milk 
and butter records among dairy cows have 
been made on rations containing substantial 
quantities of wheat bran; while the mule at 
the plow is given a bran ration but once each 
week ;and the thoroughbred that breaks records 
under the saddle or at the sulky has the bran 
mash at still less intervals. Let there be no 
quarrel with the miller or the baker because 
the consumer demandsbread frompeeledwheat. 
Even whole grains do not contain all of the 
elements recognized as necessary in the human 
diet. They are deficient among other things 
in lime. Dr. H. C. Sherman of Columbia 
University says after summarizing a list of 
valuable data about human nutrition: 

Journal of Industrial and Engineering 
Chemistry, Vol. lo. No. 5, Page 383. 

"It cannot be denied that the rapid progress 
of our knowledge of nutrition during the 
past few years has tended to complicate rather 



%% BREAD FACTS 

than simplify our conception of food values 
and nutritive requirements. But, while the 
problem has become more complex, it also has 
Decome clearer because we now for the first 
time have good reason to believe that all of the 
substances needed for normal nutrition have 
been recognized and can be reckoned with even 
though the chemical identification is in some 
cases not yet complete." 

* The efficiency with which economy in the 
use of food and the conservation of the food 
supply can be combined with entire adequacy 
of nutrition is chiefly dependent upon the 
adequate diet in quantitative terms." 

"These results indicate very strongly that 
the average American dietary contains a much 
more liberal margin of protein than of either 
phosphorus or calcium, and that while the 
danger of a protein deficiency is rarely serious 
the danger of a deficiency of phosphorus or 
calcium is more important. Phosphorus defic- 
iencies are plainly more frequent than are 
deficiencies of protein, and calcium deficiencies 
are more frequent still. The old assumption 
that adequate protein may be taken as mean- 
ing adequate supplies of all tissue-building 
material is found to be wholly misleading. 
Adequate energy intake is, in practice, more 



BREAD FACTS 23 

apt to insure adequacy of mineral elements, 
but even if all of the 246 dietaries had been 
brought to a basis of 3,000 calories per man 
per day, 1 2 per cent of them would still have 
furnished less than the average 'requirements' 
of calcium." 

Also to Drs. Mendel and Osbome of Yale, 
to Dr. Lusk of Comell, to Dr. Forbes of Ohio 
State, and to Dr. McCollum of Johns Hopkins, 
who have done so much pioneer work on the 
substances popularly called "vitamines" and 
mineral salts and to others of their class we 
turn today for accurate knowledge of proper 
foods and proper feeding. Dr. McCollum has 
worked with long patience to find out just 
what cereals need to make them into com- 
plete foods. In addition to the vitamine need 
in nutrition, he points out the need for the 
addition of mineral salts to cereal foods as 
follows : 

"The growth records make possible the 
generalization that it is difficult, if not imposs- 
ible, to obtain even a moderate amount of 
growth over an extended period on a diet 
restricted to the seeds of plants. It is evident 
that satisfactory protein mixtures can be had 



Z4 BREAD FACTS 



from seed mixtures, and from the results it is 
further evident that certain seeds as flaxseed 
and millet seed contain the fat-soluble A in 
fairly liberal amounts. Since the water-soluble 
B is everywhere abundant in the seeds the 
cause of failure to secure growth on seed mix- 
tures is seen to lie in the amount and char- 
acter of the inorganic moiety. An inspection 
of the literature relating to the content of 
inorganic elements in various classes of natural 
foods as determined in recent times by satis- 
factory methods reveals at a glance the supple- 
mentary relationships among the different 
classes of vegetable foods in inorganic elements. 
Of the seven most important seeds from the 
standpoint of human nutrition and animal 
production, only cottonseed and flaxseed 
contain a high total inorganic content and in 
both cases the ash is very poor in three impor- 
tant elements, sodium, calcium, and chlorine. 
Since a pronounced deficiency of these elements is 
characteristic of all other seeds as well, no com- 
binations of seeds will supply these elements in 
satisfactory amounts. Since spring and well 
waters in certain districts contain both sodium 
and calcium in greatly varying amounts it would 
be expected that animals may secure the necessary 
inorganic supplements through the drinking 
water in some localities which would enable them 



BREAD FACTS 15 



to grow on a ration restricted to seeds, whereas in 
other parts of the world they could not do so.*' — 
Journal Biological Chemistry, Vol. 30, 
page 13. (Italics added.) 

We sell in wheat bread a food containing 
refined carbohydrates and the best form of 
cereal protein, with these food elements ren- 
dered more soluble and more digestible 
through the action of the yeast. In addition, 
bread contains substantial amounts of needed 
mineral salts. No claims at present are made 
for vitamines ; but in studying the relation of 
the food elements and the mineral salts con- 
tained in bread to the daily amounts needed 
in human nutrition it is plain that with milk, 
grain extracts, and additions of mineral 
salts, bread can be brought more and more 
towards the standards of a complete food. In 
selling bread, welcome the dairyman, the 
vegetable and fruit grower, the meat packer, 
the fisherman, and poultryman, and then say 
to the consumer, with full warrant of nutri- 
tional authority: Make half of your daily 
diet bread, and this means at least a pound of 
bread for each individual per day. And with 



2(3 BREAD FACTS 

this pound of bread as your food basis then add 
such other foods as will give the full comple- 
ment of vitamines, mineral salts, fats, other 
proteins and carbohydrates, as your purse, 
your taste, and a correct knowledge of food 
values aids you to determine. 



BREAD FACTS 27 

HINTS FOR BETTER BREAD 

There are many troubles encountered in 
the baking of bread. In making suggestions 
it is quite difficult, at times, to diagnose a 
trouble, but hints will often suggest a remedy 
to follow. The baking foreman when en- 
countering trouble with his doughs and bread 
should pause a moment, reflect and check 
himself to see that the proper procedure was 
followed in making up the dough. By analyz- 
ing the situation, the trouble will often solve 
itself. 

The Rising of the Dough 

You may notice that the dough is not rising 
properly. A thermometer will tell you whether 
you set the dough at the proper temperature. 
Too much salt will retard the rising. If you 
permit the yeast to come in contact with the 
salt for only a fraction of a minute, before 
mixing the dough, there will be a decided 
falling off in the strength of the yeast. Dis- 
solving the yeast in very cold water will check 
the rising. Examine the yeast to see if it is 
fresh. You may have gotten hold of some stale 



i8 BREAD FACTS 



yeast. Fresh compressed yeast should have a 
good smell, not putrefactive, the color should 
be creamy yellow, and not dark, and it should 
break with a clear fracture and not show the 
consistency of butter. You may have left your 
yeast standing in a warm place. A warm tem- 
perature, even for a short time, is detrimental 
to yeast action. One should know the age 
of the yeast. Yeast deteriorates from the 
instant that it is put into compressed form. 
This deterioration is all the more rapid the 
warmer it is kept and the longer it is kept. 

You may observe that your dough rises 
rapidly at first, but it gradually loses its 
activity, the dough rises slowly in the pan, 
and the dough, instead of having a "kick" 
in the oven, refuses to expand properly. This 
may be caused by the nature of the yeast. 
The yeast may have a strong initial fer- 
mentation but it loses its strength before the 
bread is baked. If you have not supplied 
the yeast with sufficient fermentable material 
and other yeast food, the action will become 
weaker and weaker. Warm temperatures will 
also cause a rapid start but the final action 



BREAD FACTS iq 

will be slow and sluggish. The best kind of 
fermentation is one which starts slowly and 
increases in vigor and reaches its best activity 
when the dough is in the pan. This condition 
is attained when there is proper nourishment 
for the yeast in the dough. 

Arkady Yeast Food supplies an ideal food 
for the yeast in the dough. It causes the yeast 
to grow and produce new yeast which, by its 
very nature of growth, has a maximum raising 
power. Starting with less yeast when using 
Arkady, you naturally get a much slower 
action in the first period, but after the first 
punch, which is in about two hours, you begin 
to get the effects of the newly produced yeast 
and the dough begins to rise more vigorously 
and continues so until your bread is baked. 

Be sure your yeast is fresh and feed it properly 
to insure good results. 

Proper Fermentation Period 

By fermentation period is understood the 
time required to properly develop the dough. 
This is the time interval from the time the 
dough is mixed until it is ready for scaling. 



30 BREAD FACTS 

There is no laboratory test which will deter- 
mine this accurately, although the tests are 
admirable guides. A high speed mixer develops 
the gluten, so a shorter fermenting period is 
required, than when using a slow speed. The 
longer a dough can be mixed with a high speed 
mixer, the better the dough will be developed 
and the shorter will be the fermentation 
period. Some flours, however, will not stand 
vigorous mixing so an understanding of your 
flours is necessary. Flours with a strong, 
tough gluten will stand more mixing than 
flours of the soft winter wheat type. 

A dough which has had too much mixing 
will be sticky when it comes from the mixer. 
It will remain sticky during the time it stands 
in the trough; it will scale with difficulty; it 
will proof poorly, tending to run flat in the 
pan and it will not expand properly in the 
oven. Northwestern flours, as a rule, require 
more time in the dough than the Southwestern 
flours. Among the Southwestern flours, 
Kansas, Oklahoma and Texas flours require 
a little more time than the Nebraska and 
Missouri flours. The Kansas and Missouri 



BREAD FACTS 31 

flours require more time than the flours from 
California, Oregon, Washington, Illinois, Indi- 
ana, Kentucky, Ohio, Pennsylvania and the 
Eastern States ; and the latter flours more time 
than the very^soft wheats of Michigan and 
Wisconsin. The Canadian flours probably have 
the toughest and largest amount of gluten of 
any flours. They can stand lots of mixing, 
and must stand a long time in the dough to 
develop the gluten most effectively. The 
doughs from these flours may be soft when 
they come from the mixer. They have the 
power, however, to become tough again as 
the fermentation progresses. 

There are seasons, however, when the above 
remarks will not hold for a given territory. 
The larger portion of the wheat crop for 
Montana, in 191 8, produced a flour much like 
the Canadian flours. The gluten was tough 
but elastic, and it was present in large 
amounts. This flour required a long fer- 
mentation to get the best results. However, 
the 1919 wheat crop of the same State pro- 
duced a flour which was deficient in gluten, 
as well as one that was weak and did not stand 



31 BREAD FACTS 



much fermentation. The 191 8 Northwestern 
and Southwestern wheats gave a flour with 
a strong gluten and plenty of it ; so a 4 J^ to 
5 hour fermentation gave excellent bread. 
The 19 19 crop from the same localities gave 
a flour which showed the best results when 
taken in 33^ to 4 hours. The 1920 wheat crop 
gives an excellent flour for gluten quality 
and gluten strength. A longer period of fer- 
mentation with a slacker dough will give 
better results than you are getting with the 
19 19 crop, using the shorter period of fer- 
mentation. 

There are a number of factors which will 
influence the fermentation period. In the 
first place, the amount of yeast that is used, 
the quality of the yeast, and the age of the 
yeast, will affect the time. The stronger the 
fermentation, naturally, the shorter the time 
required to develop the dough. Warm tem- 
peratures shorten the period, through in- 
creasing the activity of the yeast and through 
stimulating those ferments which act best at 
higher temperatures and which are always 
present in a dough. These act upon the 



BREAD FACTS 33 



gluten, making it soft and elastic. Some of 
this is to be desired, but when this action goes 
too far the capacity of the dough for holding 
gas and then giving the proper "kick" in 
the oven is gone. The weaker the flour the 
more noticeable will be this action. 

Salt tends to lengthen the fermentation 
period. It checks the ferments which act on 
the gluten and checks the yeast action, and it 
toughens the gluten. Whole milk, skimmed 
milk, powdered milk, sweetened condensed 
and unsweetened condensed milk lengthen 
the time. They have a binding effect on the 
gluten. Buttermilk, on the other hand, 
shortens the time, due to the acidity and the 
ferments which the buttermilk contains. Cane 
sugar, glucose, corn sugar and maltose sugars 
seem to have little direct effect upon the 
development of the dough. They ferment 
about equally well in the dough and other 
than supplying fermentable material for the 
yeast they do not effect the fermentation 
period. Malt extracts, however, shorten the 
period of fermentation. The higher the 
Lintner value the greater will be the action 



34 BREAD FACTS 

on the dough. Shortenings also shorten the 
fermentation period a little. The better they 
are incorporated in the dough, the greater 
will be their action on the dough. 

Naturally, a strong yeast or one that has 
been supplied with the proper food for the 
yeast will develop the dough quicker, and 
make the fermentation period shorter than 
a dough made from a weak yeast, or one not 
supplied with yeast food. 

Arkady Yeast Food decreases the time of 
fermentation by 30% when the average 
quantity of yeast is used, but by cutting the 
quantity of yeast from 40% to 50% the fer- 
mentation period of the dough will remain 
the same as when no yeast food is used. 

Is a short fermentation period desirable? 
It is, if the dough can be developed most 
effectively in a short time. Flours which are 
weak should be developed rapidly, and for 
these the shorter periods are desirable and 
necessary. A flour with a strong tough gluten 
will give best results with a longer period of 
fermentation. For flours with a large amount 
of tough gluten, a moderate amount of yeast 



BREAD FACTS 35 

with a long time will give a better result than 
a large amount of yeast and a short time, and 
for weaker flours with a small amount of 
gluten and one that is soft the reverse is true. 
More yeast and less time are preferable. 

It is a difficult matter to say and still more 
difficult to determine just exactly what is the 
correct fermentation period of a dough. 
After you have the analysis of the flour to 
show you the quantity of gluten and the qual- 
ity of the gluten you get an idea of how much 
fermentation the dough will stand. You will 
get an idea of how much yeast and how much 
salt to use, and the time required to develop 
the gluten properly. The best procedure to 
follow is to make a dough of proper consistency 
with the quantity of yeast and salt that you 
think it should have. Set the dough at 80° F. 
and scale one fourth of the dough after it has 
stood 33^ hours and work up in regular way. 
Take another 3^ of the dough after it has 
stood 3^ hour longer making four hours from 
time dough was mixed, and proceed as with 
first portion ; take the third quarter after it has 
had 43^ hours ; and the last portion after it has 



36 BREAD FACTS 

had 5 hours. If this is not convenient for 
your shop then make separate doughs with 
same formula and temperature but give the 
dough different times, one dough 3)^, one 4, 
one 4}4, and one 5 hours. Make accurate 
observation and keep notes on what you ob- 
serve in regard to the dough; its scaling; its 
moulding; the proving and the quality of 
bread produced. After the bread is cold inspect 
and determine which of these periods of fer- 
mentation gave the best bread. You may find 
that all of the bread baked is below your 
standard of quality. The loaves may all have 
a tendency to be flat, in particular those that 
had the most fermentation. You should then 
try using more yeast, but cut the time to three 

hours — three and a half and four hours and 
see which gives best results. Or, you may find 
that the dough with five hours gave the best 
results in that run, but bread still inclined to 
be too small. It may be you are using too 
much salt for this flour, and it is preventing 
the dough from expanding in the oven. Try 
using less salt and giving the dough five hours 
or use a little more yeast and still give the 
dough five hours fermentation. 



BREAD FACTS 37 



If a piece of dough is taken from a batch 
each half hour, for six hours, from the time of 
mixing, scaled, rounded up, moulded into a 
loaf and baked in usual way , it will be found 
that one of these loaves will be better for 
appearance, size, texture and color of crumb, 
and flavor over all the others. The one which 
is best in these points has had very nearly the 
proper fermentation period. All the other 
loaves will have had either too much or too 
little fermentation. It is true some will be 
nearly as good as the best one, but even an 
inexpert person can tell the difference. The 
dough is developed gradually from the time it 
is mixed until it reaches a maximum develop- 
ment and after that stage is passed the dough 
loses in quality ; it becomes undeveloped again, 
so to speak. 

The time required for the maximum devel- 
opment of the dough cannot be ascertained 
accurately but we can come very near to it by 
making a series of bakes as described above. 
Fortunately there is a fairly wide range of 
time through which we can ferment a dough 
and still produce a salable loaf of bread. There 



38 BREAD FACTS 

is one correct period of fermentation for every 
dough, when the highest quality loaf of bread 
is produced, the loaf that creates and holds a 
customer. 

Is it then possible for a baker to make 
several kinds of bread, all of the highest quality 
from one dough ; some of it getting three hours 
of fermentation and the other possibly six 
hours ? The answer is, he cannot. One piece of 
his dough will probably make a good loaf, 
whereas the remainder of his goods will be 
either made from a dough which is too young 
or one that comes from a dough with too 
much age. 

Many a baker will probably say to this, 
"Well, my trade likes my bread and I follow 
this practice." His business is small, because 
he follows this practice, and if it is not his 
competition is small. The best course is to set 
separate doughs, for each type of bread, in- 
stead of setting one dough for a variety of pro- 
ducts. It may involve a little more time, but 
it is the only way to produce the highest qual- 
ity products. At times, the baker sets one 
dough large enough to fill two ovens, but he 



B READ FACTS 39 

only has one oven in his shop. He takes one 
half of the dough forty-five minutes before the 
other half. The result is he has bread of two 
different qualities. Far better results would 
be obtained by setting two doughs, each just 
large enough to fill the oven, and no more. 

The highest quality flour, yeast, shortening, 
sugar, malt, milk, salt, etc., will not insure 
the baker good bread if his dough is not fer- 
mented properly. For that reason such 
importance is placed upon the necessity of 
determining the proper fermentation period of 
the dough. In fact, it is the very key to the 
production of a quality loaf. 

Sticky Doughs 

It is the experience of every baker to en- 
counter sticky doughs. A warm temperature 
may be the cause. Gluten acts very much like 
glue ; the warmer it gets, the stickier it gets. A 
sticky dough will result if the yeast weakens 
during the rising of the dough. Malt extracts 
with high diastatic and proteolytic enzymes if 
used in too large amounts will make the dough 
soft. A knowledge of your malt extract and 



40 BREAD FACTS 



the judicious use of it with different flours 
will save you many troubles. A young dough 
will feel sticky and will have a tendency to 
run when in the proof box. Some flours, 
especially when made from damaged wheat, 
due to rains, show a remarkable stickiness 
when made into dough and the longer the 
dough stands the more this develops. One 
way to handle a flour of this nature is to use 
lots of salt and yeast, and use a short fermen- 
tation period. The best solution is to get rid 
of the flour, if possible to do so. Mixing the 
dough so long that the gluten loses its elasticity 
causes a condition of stickiness. This applies 
to the high speed mixers. There is no danger 
of making a dough sticky with a slow speed 
mixer. 

Young and Old Doughs 

A young dough, as the name implies, refers 
to a dough which is not developed properly. 
The loaf of bread baked from such a dough will 
have a dark reddish brown crust, and quite 
frequently there will be blisters, just beneath 
the crust. The loaf will be small and flat. 



BREAD FACTS 41 



showing little oven spring and if there is any 
spring the loaf will have a poor appearance. 
A young dough will take on color quite readily 
in the oven. In the proof box the dough will 
flatten out in the pan, and will, in most cases, 
take considerable time to proof. The dough will 
also be quite sticky in the pan during proofing, 
and will also look as though it were sweating. 
Young doughs have a strong tendency to 
stick to the divider and moulding machine. 
I f the dough is quite young the texture of the 
crumb will be coarse and the color of crumb will 
be quite yellow, but the flavor will be good. 

Old doughs show some characteristics of 
young doughs, in that the dough sticks quite 
badly when scaled and when it passes through 
the moulding machine. The odor of an old 
dough is strong, suggesting a sour yeasty 
smell. An old dough does not show the same 
tendency to run in the proof box that a young 
dough does, and when it goes to the oven 
the dough may first show a little expansion, 
standing up round, but when the loaf is 
baked it will be smaller than when the dough 
went into the oven. The gluten in an old 



42 BREAD FACTS 

dough tends to pull together in the oven. This 
is often referred to as having a binding effect. 
The dough will color slowly in the oven and the 
crust will be pale. The bread will have a 
coarse texture and the color of crumb will be 
dark, but it will not be yellow like that of a 
young dough; it will have a dirty gray color. 
An old dough is easily recognized by the strong 
sour smell of the baked bread. The loaf also 
crumbles when cut and tastes very poorly. 
Many bakers ferment their doughs too much. 
It is much more desirable to take the doughs 
just on the young side than a little old. You 
gain in flavor, in keeping qualities and in the 
bloom of the crust. Bread from an old dough 
dries out quickly and gets stale very readily. 
Remedies for old doughs : Set dough cooler, or 
shorten fermentation period, use more salt or 
use less yeast. 

Proving the Dough 

Proof, as we commonly understand the 
term, is applied to the rising of the dough in 
the pan, if it is pan bread, or if hearth bread 
the rising period from the moulding of the loaf 



BREAD FACTS 43 

until it goes to the oven. Broadly speaking, 
proving also includes the rising period from the 
time the dough is scaled until it is moulded 
into the loaf. 

This first period of proving though impor- 
tant is not so vital as the second stage, when 
the loaf is moulded. This first period should 
require about 10 to 15 minutes under ordinary 
conditions. However, if the dough is warm 
and the room is hot, as is often the case, this 
period should be less. With cold dough the 
time may be longer. The dough, after being 
scaled and rounded up, should receive a cer- 
tain amount of recovery, before moulding. 
Poor moulding due to improper proof may 
result from an under, as well as an over proved 
dough. Under proving will tend to make the 
loaf heavy and may even cause blisters in the 
bread. Over proving should be avoided. It 
develops a skin on the outside which will cause 
streaks in the bread and it will mold with 
difficulty ; the dough will tend to tear and stick 
to the machine and will not mold smoothly. 

The second stage of proving is an important 
step in the production of a good loaf. A good 



44 BREAD FACTS 



flour, or a good yeast, is often condemned 
because of failure in proving the dough prop- 
erly. The proof room should be kept at 95 
to ioo°F. and the atmosphere almost saturated 
with moisture for pan breads. Under these 
conditions the loaf should proof in 45 to 60 
minutes. A dough taking longer than one 
hour to proof may be slow, due to insufficient 
yeast; it may have too much salt; the yeast 
may be weak, due to exhaustion, or the dough 
may be cold, due to setting the dough cold or 
getting the dough chilled after scaling. A long 
time in the proof box should be avoided as the 
gluten loses its ability to hold gas over a long 
period, especially, as it is matured. The dough 
will show a tendency to flatten in the pan and 
the resulting bread will lack the oven "kick." 
The bread will have a poor texture and the 
color of crumb and the general appearance of 
the loaf will not be good. See that you are 
getting a quick proof. However, avoid taking 
your doughs under proof as this will make your 
doughs stand up round and will pull away 
from the pans when in the oven. The bread 
will be heavy ; it will not bake well in the oven ; 



BREAD FACTS 45 



it will lack in bloom and the odor and flavor 
will be strong. Caution — do not over proof 
the dough. A dough which has had too much 
proof will not show much oven "kick;" the 
texture of the bread may be even, but it will be 
coarse, the color of the crumb will be off, and 
the crumb will show a great tendency to 
crumble when cut. Do not try to get volume 
in your loaf by proving. A properly proved 
loaf if it is fermented properly will show a 
lively spring in the oven and will give you the 
proper size. The bread should show a small 
break with shredded appearance on the side of 
the loaf. Too much heat is injurious in prov- 
ing; the dough will flatten and the resulting 
loaf of bread will, naturally, be flat, and may 
have numerous blisters beneath the crust ; the 
texture will be coarse and color of crumb 
dark. 

A proof box that supplies warmth and mois- 
ture is essential for every shop; regardless of 
whether you bake one dozen loaves or one 
thousand. 

The dough should be kept warm and moist 
during proving. 



46 BREAD FACTS 

Controlling the Temperature of the Dough Room 

A loaf of bread of uniform goodness can only 
be obtained where shop conditions are con- 
trolled. 

The two vital ingredients, flour and yeast, 
are very susceptible to changes of tempera- 
ture, particularly when in the dough. Cold 
temperatures check the activity of the yeast. 
At 6o°F. fermentation practically ceases; at 
70° there is slow action of the yeast but from 
this point the yeast activity increases until a 
temperature of 95 to ioo°F. is reached, when 
the rate of gas production decreases. 

Experiments have shown that a dough fer- 
mented at 77° F. produces 25% more gas than 
one set at 68° F. At 86° 34% more gas is pro- 
duced than at 77^ F. At 95° F. 1 5% more gas 
is produced than at 86° F. A strong yeast 
action is desirable in the dough but the strong 
action obtained through warm doughs, though 
desirable, must be avoided. A warm dough is 
undesirable for many reasons. As a rule, the 

colder dough increases absorption. Low 
temperatures, however, check the yeast. 
Doughs set lower than 78° F. work slowly. 



BREAD FACTS a7 

Unless you are using the sponge process or a 
long time dough avoid setting doughs colder 
than 78° F., even though your absorption is 
increased, at the lower temperatures. 

Warm temperatures make your doughs 
runny and sticky, they become difficult to 
handle in the machines and the longer they 
ferment the worse they get. Warm doughs 
also stimulate and multiply undesirable bac- 
teria. These will cause your dough to have 
objectionable flavors, odors and a poor bloom. 
Rope will develop best under these conditions. 

The best and most practical results will be 
obtained when doughs are set at 79° to 81° F. 
The dough should increase in temperature so 
it will be about 83° to 84° F. when ready for 
scaling. A most excellent loaf of bread can be 
obtained at lower temperatures but this 
necessitates more yeast, more time and a 
greater expense in making. So temperatures 
lower than 78° F. are not frequently employed, 
except when sponge doughs are made. Sponge 
doughs are frequently set as low as 75° F. 
during the warm weather. The temperature of 
the dough room should be 80° F. 



48 BREAD FACTS 

Baking the Loaf 

No specified time or temperature can be 
given at which a loaf of bread should be baked. 
The weight of the loaf, the character of the 
bread, the age of the dough, the ingredients 
used and the proof of the loaf all must be taken 
into consideration when attempting to give 
the proper temperature for baking. A good 
heat for pan bread is 450° to 500° F. At this 
temperature the loaf should bake in 35 to 45 
minutes, depending upon the weight of dough 
in the pan. It is quite necessary that your 
thermometer register the temperatures ac- 
curately. Many thermometers are not ac- 
curate and the position of the thermometer in 
the oven may give you the wrong temperature. 

A dough which proves slowly and one which 
is young should be baked in a cooler oven. 
This will give the loaf an opportunity to ex- 
pand and it will prevent it from coloring too 
rapidly. Old doughs need higher temperatures 
to give color to the crust. A cold oven makes 
a larger loaf than a hot oven but the keeping 
quality and flavor of the loaf is not so good. 
The degree of fermentation of the loaf deter- 



BREAD FACTS 4q 



mines, in a measure, the time required to bake 
a loaf. If you have a quick fermentation it 
will bake more quickly than a slowly fermented 
dough. 

A properly baked loaf will have a crumb that 
is springy and will come back quite readily 
when pressed with the finger. An underbaked 
loaf will feel doughy and will show an impres- 
sion when pressed. A good test also is to press 
the loaf quite flat when it is baked and note 
whether it recovers again. If the loaf remains 
flat it is not baked enough. Good bread can be 
made either with or without steam in the oven. 
The character of the crust and bloom will be 
different. A loaf baked without steam will not 
have the golden brown color and glossy appear- 
ance that a steamed loaf has. The crust of the 
loaf, however, will be short and quite tender. 
Steaming the dough makes a tougher crust 
and puts a gloss on the loaf. Care must be 
exercised when using steam. It should be 
used only during the early part of the baking. 
Too much steam will check the expansion of 
the dough and it will interfere with the open- 
ing up of a cut loaf. Good wet steam should be 



50 BREAD FACTS 

used and of just sufficient pressure to supply 
the necessary moisture. 

There are two types of heat "solid" and 
"flash" heat. A properly constructed oven 
with thick walls and made of the proper 
materials will produce a continuous heat and 
will not fall off much during the baking. This 
is known as "solid" heat. The heat is radi- 
ated slowly and continuously from the walls 
to the loaf. This insures a thorough baking of 
the loaf and also gives it the proper bloom. 
A "flash" heat is a heat which is only tem- 
porary, but frequently intense for a moment 
and then falls off rapidly. Some ovens will 
only produce a "flash" heat. Their walls are 
thin and so must be heated very high before 
putting in the bread. The result is that the 
oven first burns the bread and toward the end 
is so cool that it does not completely bake the 
batch. Obviously an oven with a ''solid" heat 
is the preferable one to use. 

Handling the Baked Loaf 

The loaf when it is baked should be placed 
on clean sanitary racks or conveyors in a clean, 



BREAD FACTS 51 

cool, sanitary place, and cooled as rapidly as 
possible. The quicker the loaf can be cooled 
the longer the loaf will keep. Quick cooling 
prevents the loaf from losing moisture and it 
protects it from undue exposure to germs that 
are everywhere in the air. It has been shown 
that in a crowded room 70,000 germs fall upon 
an area of one square foot every hour. The 
advisability for rapid cooling and then wrap- 
ping is apparent. A loaf of bread cooled in an 
atmosphere of cold dry air can be wrapped in 
10 to 15 minutes after baking. Unless the bread 
is cooled in some manner it is not advisable to 
wrap it in less than one hour. Bread wrapped 
warm will be in a most favorable condition for 
developing rope during the warm weather. 

If the bread is to be cooled quickly and 
wrapped it must have a good strong bake 
otherwise the loaf will be heavy and soggy. 
For an underbaked loaf more time is neces- 
sary so the loaf will dry out before wrapping. 

Volume of the Loaf 

We have shown the importance of a properly 
fermented dough in making quality bread. 



52 BREAD FACTS 

The very purpose of fermentation is to make 
the loaf light, give volume to the bread. Every 
baker tries to make a well risen loaf. His aim 
is to get expansion. The size of a quality 
loaf will necessarily vary because of the vari- 
ance in the quality of flours and the variance 
which will be caused by the addition of differ- 
ent ingredients. It is an error to say that 
unless a loaf has a certain volume it will not 
possess quality. Flours vary in composition, 
some have a large amount of excellent gluten, 
some have a large amount of poor gluten, 
others have a small amount of excellent gluten, 
still others have a small amount of poor gluten. 
Blending these flours will change the amounts 
and expanding power of the gluten. All 
gluten, however, has a certain natural expan- 
sion when fermented; but this expansion 
varies in the different flours, and in the 
blends of flours. The flours with a large 
amount of excellent quality gluten will 
possess a high degree of expansion in the 
oven. These flours will, from the nature of 
the gluten, make a loaf with a large volume. 
It would be folly to try to check the ex- 



BREAD FACTS 53 

pansion and make the loaf small with flour 
of this nature. Either you would have an 
undeveloped dough or one that would be 
too old. Any process which could be used 
to hold the expansion in check would interfere 
with the natural function of the gluten and so 
would be detrimental to loaf quality. A flour 
of this nature must produce a large volumed 
loaf in order to give excellence of texture, of 
color, of flavor, of moisture retaining properties 
and in general appearance. 

It would likewise be folly to try to make a 
large loaf with a flour low in gluten but with 
an excellent gluten. Any process used to in- 
crease the volume beyond a certain point will 
be injurious to loaf quality. A flour of this 
nature will produce quality bread, but the 
volume of the loaf will be small. 

The point to be impressed here is that each 
type of flour will produce a certain volumed 
loaf possessing the marks of a quality loaf and 
it is up to the baker to determine just what he 
can get out of his flour. If his loaf is too large 
he should blend his flours so as to give him a 
smaller loaf. If too small, then he should get 



} 



U BREAD FACTS 



a flour with a gluten that will expand and give 
him the volume. 

In order to produce the particular volume 
that is desired the baker must have a knowl- 
edge of the materials and conditions which 
effect the size of the loaf. A small volume does 
not necessarily imply that there is something 
wrong with the method of working. If the 
bloom of the crust is good, if the texture is 
good, the color good and the flavor good, you 
can feel assured that you are getting the best 
out of your flour and other ingredients. You 
may find your loaf heavy and soggy ; however, 
if the color of crust is "foxy," your dough is 
young ; if the crust is pale and odor of bread 
strong your dough is too old. Be sure your 
proof is correct, and be sure the dough is not 
injured during scaling and moulding. Under 
proving the loaf will give a heavy loaf, appear- 
ing as though it were gluten bound. Excessive 
proof will make a flat loaf; too much heat 
in the proof box, during proving, will make the 
loaf small. 

On the other hand, your volume may be 
satisfactory but the texture coarse, and the 



BREAD FACTS $$ 



color inclined to be dark. This indicates that 
you are creating a volume by proving and the 
loaf may be larger than the quality of the flour 
justifies in producing; or, you may find that 
proper proving will give you a better expan- 
sion with the proper texture, color, flavor and 
bloom. 

Character of the Crust and Crumb 

The crust of the loaf should be of a golden 
brown color. It should be thin and tender. A 
tough crust is produced from strong, tough, 
glutenous flours when not given enough fer- 
mentation. Too much salt makes the crust 
tough as the salt has a binding effect on 
the gluten. An under-proved loaf will cause 
toughness. An excessive quantity of milk, too 
much steam in the oven, too much handling of 
the dough, after it is developed, and low grade 
flours produce bread with a tough crust. The 
crust of your bread may lack coherency ; this 
indicates too much age, or too much proof. 
Weak flours have a tendency to produce such 
crusts due to being easily over-fermented. An 
old dough will give you a loaf with a pale crust, 



56 BREAD FACTS 



a cold oven may also be the fault. If you 
haven't sufficient sugar in the dough the cmst 
will be pale. Sometimes the top crust is grey 
but the bottom of the loaf has a good bloom. 
This is caused by the dough getting too dry 
during proof, or the oven being too dry. You 
may find the bread too pale on the bottom, and 
top bloom satisfactory ; more bottom and less 
top heat will give better results. If the loaf 
crumbles when cut the indications are that 
your dough is too old, or, you have given the 
dough too much proof. Weak flours will pro- 
duce crumbly breads. Substitutes for flour 
also make the bread short and crumbly. A 
young dough will give the bread a yellow cast, 
whereas an old dough will give a dark grey 
color. Streaks in bread are caused by too 
much dusting flour at the moulding stage, or 
by the drying up of the dough in the proving 
stage before moulding. 

A satisfactory development of the dough 
with proper richness of ingredients will give 
the perfect bloom to the crust and an ideal 
texture of the crumb. 



BREAD FACTS 57 



Yeast 

Within the yeast cells that come to you in 
compressed form, there lies a tremendous 
latent power ready to be released instantly the 
yeast is placed in proper surroundings. So 
great is this power that one pound of the yeast 
can raise one hundred and fifty times its 
weight of dough, from a small flat mass into a 
balloon-like mass five times its original size in 
a period of three hours. 

This yeast has life. It is the very soul of the 
dough. Since it has life it is very delicate and 
needs attention and proper care to maintain 
its vigorous functions, producing gas and 
creating the juices which soften the gluten so as 
to give it perfect elasticity and make it easy 
for the dough to rise. Not only does it do that 
but it also grows new yeast, on the scanty food 
available for it in the dough. Yeast is a plant 
and so is very susceptible to changes of tem- 
perature. It grows rapidly. A yeast cell will 
reach full maturity in a few hours. It also dies 
rapidly. Yeast, as soon as it reaches maturity 
begins to weaken. This weakening is delayed 
by getting it into compressed form and keeping 



SB BREAD FACTS 

it cold, 40 to 45° F. The higher the tempera- 
ture at which compressed yeast is kept and the 
longer it is kept the more rapidly it weakens. 
The following tests made in the Ward 
Laboratory show how yeast loses strength 
when kept under different conditions. Gas 
collection test was made on a dough with the 
following formula: 

grams 



Flour 


100 


Water 


61 


Sugar 


5 


Yeast 


I 


Salt 


il 



** 



** 



it 

'2 



The doughs when set were 86° F. and the fer- 
mentation carried out in a chamber which was 
maintained at 85 to 87° F. during the entire 
test. On next page are given the quantities of 
gas produced from the above doughs, using 
yeast one day from the date of its arrival. One 
portion was kept in the refrigerator at 45° F. 
Another portion in the dough room, which was 
80° F., and a third portion kept in the baking 
room where the temperature was around 
95° F. 



BREAD FACTS jg 

Cubic centimeters of gas produced in six 
hours: 

Where stored c.c. gas produced in 6 hours 
Refrigerator 45° F. i iboc.c. 

Dough room 80° F. 900 

Baking room 95° F. 310 

The above results show the vital necessity of 
proper refrigeration for the yeast. I f the yeast 
comes to you in a warm condition, or, has been 
delayed in transit you can rest assured your 
yeast will work slowly. Examine your yeast 
on arrival and see that it is fresh. Yeast which 
has been kept warm, for even a short time, 
will show darkness on the surface and may 
even become soft and putty like. The yeast 
should break with a clear break and have a 
fresh yeasty smell. Stale yeast shows a putre- 
factive odor. When the yeast arrives, immed- 
iately place it in a refrigerator which should 
never be much higher than 45° F. Do not 
permit your yeast to stand around the dough 
room. Take just enough from the refrigerator 
to make the doughs you are setting at the time. 
The following test shows how yeast deter- 
iorates upon storage even when kept at 45° F. 



6o BREAD FACTS 

Gas produced in six hours using previous 
formula : 



Time stored after arrival 


c.c. gas produced 


I day 


1245 c.c. 


2 days 


1150 


3 days 


1 120 


8 days 


850 



Yeast stored at 80° F. deteriorates rapidly on 
storage as the tests below will show. 
Time stored c.c. gas produced 

1 day 970 c.c. 

2 days 750 

3 days 555 

4 days 365 

Note the rapid falling off in the gas-producing 
power of the yeast when it is stored at high 
temperatures. Since the fermentation period 
of the dough depends upon the activity of the 
yeast it is quite obvious that, in order to have 
the fermentation period under control, the 
baker must have a yeast that works uniformly. 
He must get it fresh and he must keep it from 
losing strength. 

Stamp the date on the package of the yeast 
when it reaches you. Use it as quickly as 



BREAD FACTS 61 

possible. Do not allow it to stay in storage 
longer than necessary. 

These results on yeast tests show you the 
necessity for using yeast foods to bolster up 
your yeast in the dough whether you are a 
believer in them or not. Get this fact. Yeast 
which grows in the dough has the greatest 
maximum of strength, greater than you can 
possibly get from yeast in compressed form. 
Grow yeast in your dough by using Arkady 
Yeast Food, now recognized everywhere, as 
the best source of food for yeast. 

Salt 

Salt, in addition to producing flavor, has a 
regulating influence upon the ferments in the 
flour and yeast. A good average quantity to 
use is three pounds per barrel of flour. Salt 
also has a strong binding action on the gluten. 
The more salt you use the more the fermenta- 
tion required to develop the gluten perfectly. 
Some flours will carry more salt in the dough 
than others. Salt has a strong inhibiting 
action on the yeast. As you increase the salt 
you must likewise increase the quantity 



62 BREAD FACTS 



of yeast, in order to get the same rate of 
rising. 

An average of many gas collection tests in 
the Ward Laboratory shows the following per 
cents of salt and yeast calculated on the flour, 
to give equal quantities of gas in the dough; 
that is to say, i% salt and .7% yeast will 
produce as much gas in six hours as 2% salt 
and 1.25% yeast will produce in the same 
time. 



Salt 




Yeast 


1% 




0.70% 


1.25 




.83 


1.50 




1. 00 


1.75 




1. 10 


2.00 




1.25 


2.25 




1.50 


2.50 




1.65 


^.75 




1.80 


In selecting the quantity of salt you wish to 


use be sure and 1 


ase the 


proper quantity of 


yeast to raise your 


dough. 





Milk 

Milk in any form is a very desirable ingred- 
ient to use in bread if for no other reason than 



BREAD FACTS 63 

that of the food value which it possesses. It is 
the most nutritious and has the best propor- 
tions of food elements of any known food 
product. Bread made with milk will have a 
better flavor, a better bloom and will retain its 
freshness longer than a loaf made without milk. 
Milk has a toughening action on the gluten 
so the more that is used the more fermentation 
the dough needs. The dough should also be 
set fairly slack so as to overcome the binding 
effect of the milk. Six pounds per barrel of 
condensed milk or two pounds of powdered 
milk are sufficient to make a good loaf of 
bread. Buttermilks work just the opposite to 
fresh milks. They mature the dough, due to 
the acidity and the ferments which they con- 
tain and so do not show a binding effect on the 
dough but tend to slacken it. 

Shortening 

The term "shortening" when used in bread 
making refers to fats and oils in various forms. 
These may be liquid, semi-solid or dry. The 
main purpose in adding these to the bread is to 
improve the texture and keeping qualities of 



64 BREAD FACTS 



the loaf. The crumb of the loaf also has better 
eating qualities because it is not so tough. 
Shortenings do not directly effect the fermen- 
tation. They do, however, aid in developing 
the gluten by giving it more elasticity, thus 
aiding its expanding power in the oven. Their 
action on the gluten also effects the texture of 
the loaf. The loaf texture is finer and closer 
and more silky than when no shortening is used. 
The effectiveness of a shortening depends 
upon how well it is incorporated into the dough 
batch. Dry shortenings can be easily and 
thoroughly distributed in the dough and for 
this reason have greater shortening power in 
bread doughs than the liquid kind. Florolene 
in this respect leads all other shortenings. 
Another big advantage in using it, is its clean- 
liness. 

Sugars 

The bloom of the loaf, its flavor, the raising 
of the dough and the stiffness of the dough 
depend upon the nature and the amount of 
sugar used in the dough. Cane sugar, corn 
sugars, and maltose when used in equal dry 



BREAD FACTS 65 



weight raise the dough equally well, but they 
have different effects on the flavor and bloom 
of the loaf, as well as the color of crumb. Cane 
sugar excels in flavor, color and bloom, but 
present prices do not justify its use as the 
difference in quality over the bread produced 
by the other sugars is not sufficiently pro- 
nounced. Lactose or milk sugar is of no value 
in raising the dough, but it does help the 
bloom. The sugars slacken the dough. One 
pound of sugar displaces about 3^ pound 
of water. The more sugar that is used — 
the less water you must use in making 
the dough. When more than 10 pounds of 
sugar per barrel of flour are used the raising 
of the dough is checked. Yeast works best 
when the sugar is kept below this amount. 
What has been said above also applies to 
such products as glucose, maltose, syrup, etCw 
Allowance must be made for the water they 
contain. 

Malt extracts act somewhat differently than 
sugars. The most of them have 7$ per cent 
solids but their diastatic and proteolytic pro- 
perties vary, depending"]upon materials and 



66 BREAD FACTS 



methods used in manufacture. A gcx)d malt 
extract for bakers to use is one that shows 
about 60° Lintner. Some bakers prefer to use 
malt extracts that have no Lintner value. The 
higher the Lintner value of a malt extract the 
greater is its action on the gluten, so it is 
necessary to bear in mind the type of flour 
that you have when you specify the kind of 
malt extract that you want. 

A safe quantity of malt extract to use in the 
average formula for straight doughs is from 2 
to 3 pounds per barrel of flour. More or less 
can be used depending on the Lintner value, 
and the flour you are using. Malt extracts 
must be used carefully with weak flours. 

The malt extracts and syrups are valuable 
aids in baking. A given weight of 60° Lintner 
extract will displace from 3 to 4 times its 
weight of sugar in the dough. The doughs, 
however, do not take nor carry the water, that 
doughs made from sugar do. Likewise the 
warmer your doughs are the stronger is the 
action of the malt extract on the gluten and 
starches of the flour. The yeast action is 
stimulated and the fermentation period 



BREAD FACTS 67 



shortened. However, with proper care, a loaf 
can be produced having an excellent bloom 
and flavor. 

In general, sugars are necessary for the pro- 
duction of a good bloom on the loaf. The 
amount you should use depends upon the time 
you ferment the doughs, the temperature of 
the dough and the temperature of your oven. 
Sugars retain freshness in the loaf because the 
loaf readily takes on the desired bloom in the 
oven. A dough that has not sufficient sugar 
must be baked in a hot oven to give color to the 
crust or else baked a long time in a moderate 
oven both of which will drive too much mois- 
ture from the loaf. 



68 BREAD FACTS 



WHEAT 

June, July and August are the heavy har- 
vest months for wheat. Seventy-five per cent 
of the world crop is harvested in these months. 
But somewhere, in every month, wheat is 
being planted — is being harvested. Rice and 
rye, Indian com and barley furnish the cereal 
supply for large numbers of world population. 
In the warmer climates the Orientals grow and 
eat rice. In the colder north countries — ^Nor- 
way and Sweden, Finland and the northern 
sections of Germany, Russia and Poland — 
rye, oats and barley are the main dependence 
for cereal food. But even in these colder 
countries, as wheat, through the centuries, 
has been acclimated to the colder tempera- 
tures from the warmer regions of the Nile, it 
has been given first choice over all other 
cereals for bread making. Indian corn was the 
cereal food found on the American continent. 
The Aztecs cultivated corn on the high table 
lands of old Mexico. The American pioneers 
developed corn and made it their first cereal 
food. But they brought wheat; until today 
Great Britain, Belgium, Germany, the 



BREAD FACTS 6q 



Netherlands, France and Italy look with inter- 
est, at each harvest season, towards the hoped 
for three hundred million bushels of wheat 
surplus from the United States and Canada. 
And if Russia and the Balkans add another 
two hundred million bushels, if South America, 
India and Egypt give their normal wheat sur- 
plus then the congested centres of Europe may 
have their usual per capita of wheaten, 
leavened, more nourishing, more digestible 
bread. 

The march of civilization, the development 
of the stronger types of thinking people have 
been associated with meat and dairy foods; 
but their development can also be asso- 
ciated with the growth or decline of wheat 
production. The Chinese have abundance of 
rice and poultry; but wheat was the cereal in 
their older and more powerful days. The new 
era of Japan is associated with the closer atten- 
tion to wheat and the high average of twenty 
one bushels per acre produced by the Japanese 
farmer. 

Even the strong dairy sections cluster 
around the lands of wheat surplus, and the 



70 



BREAD FACTS 



wheat by-products are the first choice of all 
foods for the dairy cow. 

The calendar of the world's wheat harvest 
shows how universal has this cereal become 
the first choice for human food. Wheat is har- 
vested by months, and in the countries of the 
world, as follows: 



January 

Australia 

Chile 

New Zealand 

February and March 

Egypt (upper) 
India 

April 

Asia Minor 

Cuba 

Cyprus 

Egypt (lower) 

India 

Mexico 

Persia 

Syria 

May 

Algeria 
Asia (central) 
China 
lapan 
Morocco 
United States 
Texas 



June 


July (Cont.) 


France (south.) 


England (south.) 


Greece 


Germany 


Italy 


Roumania 


Portugal 


Russia (south.) 


Spain 


Switzerland 


Turkey (Europ.) 


United States: 


United States: 


Colorado 


Alabama 


Illinois 


Arkansas 


Indiana 


California 


Iowa 


Georgia 


Michigan 


Illinois 


Minnesota (so) 


Kansas 


Nebraska 


Kentucky 


New York 


Mississippi 


Ohio 


Missouri 


Pennsylvania 


No. Carolina 


Wisconsin 


Oklahoma 




Oregon 


August 


lenncssee 


Belgium 


Utah 


Canada : 


Virginia 


Alberta 


Washington 


Brit. Columbia 




Manitoba 


July 


Ontario 


Aust ria-Hunga ry 


Saskatchewan 


Bulgaria 


Denmark 


Canada: 


Great Britain 


Quebec 


Russia (central) 



BREAD FACTS 



71 



August (Cont.) 

Poland 

The Netherlands 
United States: 
Minnesota 
(c*l and north.) 
Montana 
New England 
North Dakoca 
South Dakota 



SepL and October 


November 


Norway 


Africa (southern) 
Argentine 


Russia (north.) 


Peru 


Siberia 


December 


Scotland 


Burma 


Sweden 


New South Wales 



The world per capita consumption of wheat 
is given by the United States Department of 
Agriculture, based on ten years average of 
production, import and export figures and 
seeding requirements as follows : 



Bus 

Canada 9.5 

Belgium 8.3 

France 7.9 

Spain 6.1 

United Kingdom 6.0 

Switzerland 6.0 

Australia ^.^ 

Italy 5.4 

United States 5.3 

Uruguay 5.3 

Argentina 5.2 

Bulgaria $.0 

Austria Hungary 4.3 



Bus 

Netherlands 4.2 

Roumania 4.0 

Denmark 3.5 

Chile 3.4 

Germany 3.2 

Russia 2.7 

Serbia 2.5 

Sweden 2.5 

Egypt 2.5 

Portugal 1.8 

British India 8 

Mexico 8 

Japan 5 



The per capita consumption of wheat in the 
United States, by states, and the available 
supplies can well be studied by bakers. A 
baker in Alabama, Mississippi or Arkansas, 
with a wheat per capita consumption of four 



7% BREAD FACTS 



bushels has not the opportunity of the baker 
who serves Ohio, with a per capita consump- 
tion of 6 3-10 bushels; or Minnesota where it 
is 7 2-10 bushels; or Pennsylvania where it is 
5 8-10 bushels. 

Wheat is the main raw material upon which 
the baking industry depends and to know 
bread is to know wheat. Agricultural science 
has spent a long effort to increase production, 
improve varieties and increase the bread- 
making value of wheat. This effort can be 
helped and directed towards more definite 
bread-making results, through closer interest 
from the baking industry in the work of the 
agricultural scientist. 

A century ago there were but few varieties, 
today agricultural science has developed a 
variety for all soils and all climates. Men like 
Luther Burbank foresaw that if one grain 
more could be added to each wheat head the 
result would add fifteen millions of bushels to 
the annual American wheat harvest. One 
reason for the superior food value of wheat is 
the amount and character of its protein con- 
tent. Wheats vary in this ingredient from a 



BREAD FACTS 73 



minimum of eight to a maximum of twenty 
per cent. Colorado wheats are highest in pro- 
tein; California and Carolina wheats yield 
more starch and less protein. 

Why? The agricultural scientist is trying 
to find out, is making progress, and the baker 
is interested as this question affects the gluten 
strength of his flour and the food value of his 
bread. 

In i860 the average wheat yield per acre in 
the United States was around ten bushels; 
today it has passed sixteen bushels per acre; 
while in Great Britain and Germany the aver- 
age yield per acre is around thirty bushels ; in 
France the yield is past twenty bushels. Irri- 
gation has added more than fifteen million 
bushels to the annual wheat harvest in the 
United States. The mineral needs of the 
wheat plant have been studied; just, as later, 
the mineral needs of the yeast plant were 
studied and determined. The wheat plant has 
been found to need phosphates, potash and 
nitrogen in the form of ammonium salts, or 
nitrogen gathered from the air by the pea and 
bean plants. 



74 BREAD FACTS. 

The making of flour begins in the wheat 
fields; if underripe the flour will make a sour 
and a dark bread; if well ripe it may lose in 
weight but the quality of the gluten is en- 
hanced. The wheat undergoes changes in the 
shocks, in the stack, in the elevator, and the 
flour, after milling, is still subject to changes, 
the reasons for which are still not clearly 
worked out. It is in the ripening or aging — 
proper aging — of the wheat and flour that 
flavor, the delicious wheat flavor, is developed. 
In the process, too, the gluten quality is con- 
served or injured. 

Milling is an art of its own. The main fea- 
tures of milling, after the proper wheat selec- 
tions, are cleaning and tempering the wheat 
berry and separating it into the different 
classes or grades demanded by the baker and 
the general market. It is not generally known 
that the strongest gluten comes from nearest 
the bran. The more soluble proteins and 
starches are from the inside of the berry. But 
milling is another industry, at present, too 
distinctly separate to be combined with bak- 
ing. While the progressive miller studies 



BREAD FACTS 75 

wheats from all sections and of all strengths, 
the baker must be equally free to pick for flour 
quality. In selecting flour the baker is inter- 
ested in 

the moisture content, 

the quantity and quality of the gluten, 

the flavor, and 

the final way in which the flour bakes up. 
The moisture of wheats vary, but American 
wheats are lower in moisture than European 
wheats. The moisture content of the average 
good flour furnished the American baker 
should be around thirteen per cent. Water is 
used in milling to temper the wheat, but it is 
possible to go beyond and increase the mois- 
ture content of the flour above that neces- 
sary to temper. Flour may lose moisture 
after milling and thus lose in weight. It is 
more apt to lose moisture than to gain mois- 
ture. A condition which causes it to gain 
moisture is not good for either its flavor or 
gluten quality. Flour is best stored in a dry 
temperature of from 75 to 80 degrees F. free 
from foreign odors. Excessive moisture or 
excessive heat injures gluten quality. The 



76 BREAD FACTS 



moisture test is one of the daily necessary tests 
in the scientific control of baking. If enough 
flour is used, the laboratory can pay its way by 
watching the moisture content of the flour. 
And when the moisture content and gluten 
strength are known the proper absorption and 
fermentation can be determined for the dough 
mix. 

The quantity and quality of the gluten 
varies with wheat varieties, districts where 
grown, the condition of the season, the aging 
and protection of the wheat, the milling 
and the proper conditioning or aging of the 
flour. 

Wheats that produce excellence in gluten 
content come from the northern, middle and 
southern American states, of what may be 
called the American plains — from Minnesota, 
the Dakotas andMontana, south through Okla- 
homa, into Texas. Other lands where wheats 
of high gluten strength are produced are 
Canada, eastern and southern Russia, Rou- 
mania and southern Argentina. 1 1 is estimated 
that Canada, alone, has one hundred and fifty 
million acres capable of producing wheat of 



BREAD FACTS 77 



this class, not over seven per cent of which is 
now in cultivation. The entire wheat acreage 
in the United States for 1920 is given at fifty- 
three million acres. 

Gluten does not exist in flour as such, but is 
formed from the glutenin, gliaden and other 
elements of the flour proteins. Chemists are 
studying the relation of the elements of gluten 
to gluten strength. This involves the chem- 
istry of both proteins and enzymes — two of the 
most difficult, the most interesting fields in 
chemistry. 



78 BREAD FACTS 

APPLIED SCIENCE AT THE 

BAKERY 

The words "research," "applied science," 
"laboratory," and "chemist" have a far-away 
meaning to many in the baking industry. 
But the good superintendent of baking, though 
he may not know it, practices daily in the 
fields of chemistry, physics and other sciences. 
He knows the method which produces the 
results; in many cases he knows the under- 
lying cause. But experiment and testing in 
the bake shop are costly, uncertain and 
inconvenient. Enough has been demonstrated 
to show the opportunities in adding scientific 
control to practical experience. 

Any baker with his face set towards prog- 
ress can make the start. Make a visit to the 
agricultural college. Pick a sophomore, a 
second year man, who has found himself and 
demonstrated his sticking qualities. Let it be 
a boy who stands well among his fellows, and 
who is, at least in part, earning his way 
through college. Talk the matter over with 
the dean of his course, and suggest that the 



BREAD FACTS /Q 

boy take some studies related to cereals and 
ferrnentation, with his chemistry and bacter- 
iology. When the summer months come, offer 
the boy work in the bake shop, in the actual 
operations connected with the dough. At the 
end of the summer he will return to college 
with a large part of your problem on his mind. 
Bring him back again during the summer 
before his senior year. When he graduates 
send him for a few months to the American 
Institute of Baking. Make him feel your per- 
sonal interest in him; sell him heart and soul 
to the opportunity for clean work, for happy 
work, for public service as well as profit in the 
baking of good bread. Make him feel that 
this opportunity can be fully realized in your 
organization. Remember that his mind has 
been started to work during his college days 
and never forget this important point in deal- 
ing with him. 

The next step is your laboratory. The 
plant ovens are the best for baking experi- 
mental doughs, and you will not need a labor- 
atory oven. The balance of the equipment, 



8o BREAD FACTS 



for beginning, may be listed, at present prices, 
as follows: 

General Equipment and Furniture 

Proofing cabinet $40.00 

Yeast testing cabinet 25.00 

Electric drying oven 1 15.00 

Analytical balance 50.0c 

Muffle furnace 80.00 

Moulding table for baking tests $25.00 to 50.00 

Table for oven and muffle furnace 15.00 

Table for analytical balance 15.00 

Table for washing glutens 15.00 

Sink and drain board with hot and cold water 100.00 

Set weights for analytical balance — 100 gms — 5 mg — 

lacquered 12.00 

Microscope $100.00 to 200.00 

Plumbing and gas connections, not to exceed 200.00 

Glass Ware and Small Accessories for Yeast Testing 

4 Jars, Chidlow gas collection graduated to iSoocc. in 20cc. 
division accessory bottler, tubing and rubber stopper. ...$30.00 

Glass Ware and Small Accessories for WashingGlutens 

2 — I gal. capacity pottery bowk, white inside 1.50 

6— porcelain cups .50 

I — ^spatula flexible steel with wooden handle 5" blade 30 

I — spatula steel non-flexible blade at both ends 25 

2 — ^pipettes Mohr's graduated in i-iocc i.oo 

I — ^aluminum weighing scoop and counterpoise 3.35 

Glass Ware and Accessories for Ash Test 

6 — Silica dishes 6.00 

6omm diam. 

13mm deep 

Accessories for Baking Tests 

6 — mixing bowls with covers to be used for mixing and fer- 
menting the dough 3.00 



BREAD FACTS 8i 



I —balance baker's scale with funnel scoop and counterpoise 

$15.00 

I — ^set weights, brass in wood block igm. — to — looogms.. 5.00 

6 — wide mouth glass jars pint size 60 

necessary covered jars for holding sugar, salt, shortening, 

etc 2.00 

I — 500CC. glass graduated cylinder 1.25 

I — loocc. glass graduated cylinder 75 

I — bread knife lor cutting bread and dough i.oo 

I — large spatula, flexible blade i.oo 

Accessories for Moisture Test 

6 — dishes, aluminum flat bottom with slip in lid 2.00 

diameter.... 58mm 

height 17mm 

Miscellaneous Equipment, not to exceed 50.00 

TTiis laboratory equipped as above is designed for making the 
following tests: 





ash 


gas production 




moisture 


On Yeast tests 


On Flour 


absorption 
wet gluten 






dry gluten 


Tests on other baking 




baking tests 


materials 



The chemist has already learned to mix, 
mould, proof and bake a loaf of bread. Put 
him to studying how to produce a better 
loaf, from different flours and different ingred- 
ients. Put him to testing flours, the moisture 
content, gluten quantity and quality and how 
best to handle a particular flour in your shop. 
His skill will increase with the number and 
variety of flour samples tested and baked into 
loaves. From flour, his interest will expand 



8i BREAD FACTS 

towards oils, milk products, yeast, flavoring 
extracts and the long list of bakery supplies 
offered the bread and cake baker, soaps and 
cleaning powders, gasoline, lubricating oils. 
He will need more apparatus as he goes along, 
and as he shows you the particular need and 
usefulness to your business. 

If he is the kind that will turn it to good 
account and not waste time, have him keep in 
touch with the local medical society, the high 
school chemist and domestic science teacher, 
the woman's club and other civic organizations. 
The opportunity to build up public confidence 
for your plant and your bread will be well 
worth the interest he takes. 

In making tests of foods, the methods of the 
Association of Official Agricultural Chemists 
are reliable and at once available. He will 
need a small library to begin with, including a 
half dozen of the scientific journals. Have him 
start a systematic record plan of all tests and 
all experimental bakes; have him make suffi- 
cient tests and bakes to be sure of his facts. 
Suggest that he start loose leaf note books into 
which every item of interest relating to either 



BREAD FACTS 83 



the science or economics of baking will be 
brought together, making duplicate copies for 
your own use. 

With your interest, backing and patience, 
his work will soon begin to show on the credit 
side of your costs sheets and in the increased 
quality and better uniformity of your bread. 
The rest will take care of itself. The methods 
worked out and used in the Ward Laboratories 
for testing flour are as follows: 

** Weigh out carefully lo gr. of flour in dup- 
licate ; place in a small dish or suitable recept- 
acle; add 5 8-10 to 6 cc. of water to spring and 
hard wheat flours. If soft winter flour use 
53^ cc. After adding the water to the flour 
make into a smooth dough by means of 
spatula. Be sure the dough is well collected 
into a smooth ball of dough. Cover dough 
with water at a temperature of 80° Fah- 
renheit. Allow hard winter and spring flours 
to stand one hour ; soft winter flours, wash out 
glutens immediately after doughing up. The 
gluten is now ready for washing. i3^ to 2 
liters of tap water — 80° Fahrenheit are taken 
in a suitable bowl and the glutens are washed, 
taking a piece of dough in each hand. The 
dough should be washed very carefully in 



84 BREAD FACTS 

the beginning so as not to scatter the gluten. 
After gluten collects doughs can be washed 
more vigorously. In working be careful to 
collect any scattered gluten which may collect 
in bottom of bowl. Washing in the first 
water should take about ten minutes. This 
will get rid of the greater portion of the 
starch. The glutens are now removed and 
the water poured from the receptacle. Be 
careful to note whether any small pieces of 
gluten remain in the receptacle. If so, collect 
them with the piece of gluten obtained from 
the flour. A fresh sample of tap water is now 
taken, 80° Fahrenheit, and the final washing 
of the gluten made. This should take from 
twelve to fifteen minutes, the glutens being 
alternated every four or five minutes ; that is, 
the gluten washed in the right hand for four 
or five minutes and vice versa. This change is 
necessary because the two hands do not work 
the dough equally and by changing from one 
hand to the other we find that we get more 
uniform results. When the gluten is com- 
pletely washed it is dried between the fingers 
to a point where the gluten just begins to 
stick to the fingers. It is then placed on a 
piece of paper and weighed, using a tare piece 
of paper to balance piece holding the wet 
gluten. This weight multiplied by ten gives 



BREAD FACTS 85 



the per cent of wet gluten in the flour. The 
gluten is now baked in an oven at 1 50° C. from 
twenty to thirty minutes and then placed in a 
drying oven at io5°C. for at least twelve 
hours. The weight of dry gluten multiplied by 
ten gives the per cent of dry gluten in the 
flour. The ratio of wet to dry gluten can then 
be calculated. We find that by carefully 
washing the glutens the duplicate glutens 
should check within i-io of i per cent and 
not vary more than 2-10 of i per cent. We also 
find that different manipulators get uniform 
results when using this method. It is a 
significant fact that the higher the ratio, 
wet to dry gluten for a given flour, that is, for 
a spring or a hard winter flour, the better the 
baking quality. A good spring flour should 
have a ratio of three to one ; the hard winter, 
3.1 to 3.2 to I ; soft winter flours which are 
washed immediately after doughing, the ratio 
of wet to dry is 3 to i . The ratio of wet to dry 
gluten for a given type of flour depends upon 
the grade of flour. The lower the grade the 
lower the ratio of wet to dry gluten." 



86 BREAD FACTS 

ARKADY 

Arkady is a yeast food. The word stands 
for the initials of Robert Kennedy Duncan, 
first director of the Mellon Institute at Pitts- 
burgh. To the hundreds of American bakers 
daily using Arkady, it means better bread and 
increased bread sales. The baker who learns 
Arkady, learns what it is to make a better loaf. 
It brings standardization into his shop and a 
better control over the dough batch. It saves 
yeast, for it feeds yeast. It saves flour and 
sugar from fermentation loss, for it helps the 
yeast do its work on the living, budding grow- 
ing side, instead of on the destruction side of 
fermentation. The combination of mineral 
salts in Arkady was put together, after long 
and patient experiment, for the central purpose 
of standardizing the waters used in baking. 
The result did the job, standardized the waters, 
made up the deficiencies in mineral salts needed 
for a healthful fermentation in the dough, and 
produced the better loaf of bread. But in a 
trial in baking, it was found that the average 
amount of yeast generally used had to be de- 
creased. Further use and continued study 



BREAD FACTS 87 



proved that Arkady cut the fermentation 
losses one half. Visualize a hundred barrels 
of flour. Four of them are burned up into 
leavening gas, in the dough process. Two of 
these barrels are saved from the loss through 
the use of Arkady. Visualize a hundred 
barrels of sugar for bread making. From 
thirty to fifty of them will be used up by the 
yeast in the fermentation trough. Arkady 
saves at least fifteen of them from waste ; saves 
them into the loaf to give more bloom, more 
flavor, more food value ; or saves them to the 
other sugar needs, in times of sugar shortage. 
Arkady has shown what science can do for 
baking. Robert Kennedy Duncan was a pro- 
fessor in the University of Kansas. He saw 
what science was doing for the dairyman, the 
farmer, the wheat grower. He followed on 
with his idea. Why should not science extend 
its investigations to the whole field of human 
effort? What about the food products after 
they reached the factory for preparation for 
the consumer ? What about the helpfulness of 
science in these fields? Why do foods spoil? 
How could the spoilage be prevented ? What 



88 BREAD FACTS 



about the laundryman ? What about the rela- 
tion of chemistry to the soil on clothes and 
removal without weakening the fiber of the 
garment? And so he joined his ideas with the 
big human interest and money of the Mellons 
at Pittsburgh. And the Ward Baking Company 
was one of the first industries to seek the help 
of the Institute. 

Mr, George S. Ward, President of the Ward 
Baking Company, stated in 19 17 the early 
history of the development of Arkady as 
follows : 

"About six years ago, in an effort to stan- 
dardize our product, our company, operating 
in different cities and having a natural desire 
to have our bread equal in one city to what it 
was in another, endeavored to standardize 
it, and in doing that we found some difficulties 
in our fermentation problems which we could 
not understand. Upon closer study we dis- 
covered that the hardness of water, or the 
softness of water, as the case might be, affected 
the fermentation. In other words, notwith- 
standing the fact that we had laboratory con- 
trol of the raw material — the raw material 
coming from exactly the same sources, the 
flour from the same mills — in spite of that, we 



BREAD FACTS 8q 



were not able to make the same bread in 
Boston as we did in the city of New York, or 
the city of Pittsburgh, or the city of Cleveland, 
and we finally hit upon the fact that it was 
because of the difference in the water. 

"About that time in Pittsburgh some public 
spirited men, namely : A. W. and R. B. Mellon, 
opened up the Mellon Institute for Industrial 
Research. I took our problem to him and to Dr. 
Duncan, Director of the Institute, and our com- 
pany established fellowships to undertake re- 
search in bread making. The water problem was 
taken up at once by Dr. Duncan and his staff, 
and they soon found that the mineral salts in 
the water had an influence on the action of the 
yeast in bread making. They set to work to 
try out varying amounts and different com- 
binations of mineral salts as generally found in 
water, in experimental baking. When the 
combination of mineral salts as now used in 
Arkady was reached they baked up loaves of 
bread with and without these salts, and each 
time the loaf made with Arkady was selected 
by us as the better loaf. 

* We then asked about the wholesomeness of 
the process, and the Mellon Institute replied 
that it was entirely wholesome. We went 
further, and submitted Arkady to medical 



go BREAD FACTS 

experts of high standing. In each case they 
reported not only that it was wholesome but 
added to the food value of the bread. The 
conservation and yeast-saving facts reported 
from the Mellon Institute were submitted to 
and confirmed by a large number of chemists 
connected with some of the best known uni- 
versities, colleges, and research laboratories. 
All of our facts have been submitted to the 
Federal and State pure food officials. The 
Ward Baking Company, has made the fullest 
effort in its own investigations to establish the 
truth, the full truth, and we have been equally 
interested in throwing all of these facts on top 
of the table, so that all who may be interested 
in the scientific progress of the baking industry 
— bakers, pure food officials, legislators, press 
and public — may study for themselves what 
has been accomplished and proved." 

The establishment of Arkady is a story with 
a deep human interest. The investigations 
connected with it have reached from the 
Mellon Institute into many of the leading 
laboratories of the country. Scientists of 
national and international reputation have 
turned from other work to confirm and extend 
the facts connected with it, and the yeast food, 



BREAD FACTS qi 

conservation and better bread making claims, 
established in the laboratory have been fol- 
lowed on out into the bakeries, large and small, 
and the facts further demonstrated under the 
joint supervision of the scientists and baking 
experts in actual bakings. The opponents of 
Arkady have pulled it from the scientists and 
public health boards into politics, where think- 
ing and independent majorities in the legisla- 
tive bodies where it was brought to trial have 
pronounced in its favor. Wherever scientist 
or baker, legislator or editor, army officer or 
mess sergeant have looked into its facts, have 
seen its bread making results, it has won on 
its merits and on the level. 

Arkady is new in application; old in prin- 
ciple. It puts nothing new into bread ; nothing 
that flours, salt, waters, malt extracts, milk and 
other ingredients do not put into bread. But it 
was a new way, with a definite, dependable, 
measurable, and temporarily competing result. 
It was thought that it would hurt yeast. Yeast 
experts, of long experience in the science of 
fermentation, said that the Arkady salts would 
not feed yeast. Today one of the Arkady salts 



Q2 BREAD FACTS 

is being used in the production of a large part 
of the yeast supply. And so, at first an aid to 
yeast in the making of bread, one of its salts has 
become an aid to the yeast maker in making 
yeast; it has revolutionized yeast making. 

One of the salts in Arkady is calcium sul- 
phate, refined, soluble calcium sulphate. Bread, 
as pointed out in the chapter on the food value 
of bread is deficient in calcium. Wheat is 
richer in phosphates, and phosphates need 
their calcium balance, both for better yeast 
action and for better human nutrition. All of 
the calcium salts were tried out ; but the little, 
mysterious yeast plant seemed to like best, to 
thrive best with the lime salt, calcium sul- 
phate. This salt was chosen as basis for the 
attack against the process, and in 19 1 5 Arkady 
was hailed before the Public Health Com- 
mittees of the Massachusetts Legislature. No 
one could pronounce it unwholesome; no one 
would say that it lowered the nutritive value 
of the bread. The only thing its opponents 
could find wrong with it was that it was new 
and the opposition secured the passage of an 
act which named a list of baking ingredients 



BREAD FACTS qj 



that could be used without labeling and 

required any ingredient "not commonly sold 

at retail as food to be labeled." Since Arkady 

was new the loaves of bread containing it were 

labeled, but consumers continued to eat the 

bread. 

In 19 1 7, the law of 191 5 having failed of its 

trade fight purpose, the attack on Arkady was 

renewed before the Massachusetts Legislature. 

The Ward Baking Company went before the 

committees and legislature with the wealth of 

fact which it had accumulated behind Arkady, 

and went to the public with these facts through 

an extensive advertising campaign, and not 

only defeated the bill by a decisive vote but 

greatly increased the sale of its bread. 

Among the American experts that have 
investigated and confirmed the Arkady facts 
are the following : 

Dr. Robert Kennedy Duncan, and Drs. 
H. A. Kohman and Charles Hoffman and 
Messrs. Lauren H. Ashe, Truman M. Godfrey 
Alfred E. Blake, who conducted the investi- 
gation leading to its discovery, and 

Dr. Raymond F. Bacon, Director Mellon 
Institute, Pittsburgh. 



Q4 BREAD FACTS 

Dr. Alice G. Blood, Professor of Nutrition, 
Simmons College, Boston. 

Dr. Wm. F. Boos, former Expert for Federal 
Government in Physiological Chemistry and 
Medicine, Boston. 

Dr. Frederick E. Breithut of the College of 
the City of New York. 

Miss L. A. Cauble, Investigator for New 
York Association for the Improvement of the 
Poor. 

Dr. Worth Hale, Professor of Pharmacology, 
Harvard Medical School, recently with Federal 
Bureau of Public Health ; Government Expert 
in many Pure Food and Drug cases. 

Prof. Carl Miner, Chief Miner Laboratory, 
Chicago. 

Prof. Herbert R. Moody, College of the City 
of New York. 

Dr. James F. Norris, Professor of Chemistry, 
Mass. Inst, of Technology. 

Dr. Wm. H. Walker, Professor of Chemistry, 
Mass. Inst, of Technology. 

Dr. C. E. A. Winslow, Professor of Public 
Health, Yale University. 

Dr. A. G. Woodman, Professor of Food 
Chemistry, Mass. Inst, of Technology. 



BREAD FACTS q5 

In 19 1 7 Professor John P. Street, State 
Analyst of Connecticut, referee on bread for the 
joint food standards commission appointed 
from the United States Department of Agricul- 
ture, the American Associations of State 
and Federal Pure Food and Drug Officials, and 
Association of Official Agriculture Chemists, 
and acting as State Analyst for Connecticut, 
made a thorough investigation of yeast food, 
and particularly of the mineral salts contained 
in Arkady because of the newness in applica- 
tion to bread. Professor Street's report is 
published in the 22nd report on Food Products 
of the Connecticut Agriculture Experiment 
Station, Bulletin 200, December, 191 7. Pro- 
fessor Street deals directly with Arkady. On 
the question of conservation. Professor Street 
says : 

"In every test the non-Arkady breads 
showed the greater loss in dry matter. This 
ranged from 1.340 to 21.006 lbs.; the Arkady 
breads showed losses of from 0.675 to 13.155 
lbs. ; in both cases the losses varying to a con- 
siderable extent with the amount of flour used. 
The percentage loss of dry matter in the non- 
Arkady breads ranged from 2.41 to 5. 12 and in 



qb BREAD FACTS 

the Arkady breads from 0.53 to 3.25. Al- 
though there are considerable variations in the 
decreased losses of dry matter where Arkady 
was used, it is a striking fact that in every test 
the Arkady bread showed a lower loss, ranging 
from 0.60 to 2.49, average, 1.60 per cent. 

"In other words, in making 2,414 loaves of 
bread weighing 3,505 lbs., the use of 11.878 
lbs. of Arkady allowed the saving of 22.93 lbs. 
of flour, 10.125 lbs. of sugar, 2.875 lbs. of salt, 
14.00 lbs. of yeast and i.oo lb. of malt 
extract, or a total net saving in raw materials 
of 39.052 lbs. At the same time 40.15 lbs. of 
the dry matter of the dough was saved from 
unnecessary destruction by the yeast ferments. 
Calculating these results to the basis of i ,000 
1.5 lb. loaves of bread, the saving in ingred- 
ients following the use of Arkady were as 
follows : 

Saved Used in Addition 

9.50 lbs. flour 4.92 lbs. Arkady — 

4.19 " sugar 
1. 19 " salt 
5.80 ** yeast 
0.41 ** Roloco 

In addition to the above, 16.63 lbs. of the 
dry matter of the dough was saved per thou- 
sand 1.5 lb. loaves. When one considers the 



BREAD FACTS q/ 



1 



millions of loaves of bread made annually such 
a conservation as is shown by tests is well 
worthy of careful attention/' 

On the general food value and wholesome- 
ness Professor Street states : 

''It is apparent, therefore, that the use of 
Arkady does not increase the moisture content 
of the bread, that it slightly increases its food 
value, and that it in no way decreases the 
bread's digestibility." 

Every pound of yeast during its period of 
active fermentation in the bread dough burns 
up an average of four pounds of flour in pro- 
ducing leavening gas. Think this big fact over. 
Four barrels in every hundred barrels of flour 
are burned up by the yeast into gas. Only 
one-half of this gas is needed to raise the 
dough. The other half is WASTE. 

Arkady Yeast Food stops this waste and it 
saves for the general food supply of the country 
out of each year's supply of baking materials 

— Six Months^ Supply of Yeast 
— Two Months Supply of Sugar 
— One Week's Supply of Flour 



q8 bread facts 

In the extensive investigations surrounding 
Arkady Yeast Food, American scientists and 
baking experts have just completed the most 
thorough and exhaustive study of fermenta- 
tion losses in bread making ever made. 
Seventy-six of the baking tests made were 
checked by two or more independent experts. 
The average American bread formula was 
followed : Thirty-eight of the bakes were made 
with the usual amount of yeast and no Arkady 
and thirty-eight of the bakes with Arkady and 
but one-half of the usual amount of yeast. 

The average percentage of fermentation loss 
of dry, water-free flour material burned up by 
the yeast in the production of leavening gas 
stands in these tests as follows: 

Without Arkady Yeast Food 3-9% 

With Arkady YeastFood ^-3% 

Conservation of Food Material in 

favor of Arkady i •^% 

Sample loaves of known weight were taken 
for moisture determinations. The results of 
the analysis of tests show fermentation losses 



BREAD FACTS 



QQ 



in detail in percentage of 
follows : 



Hoffman Analyst, Ward Plant 



dry material as 






New Haven Plant 
U. S. Army Washington Barracks 
Indianapolis Plant 
Street Analyst, Ward Plant 



New Haven Plant 
U. S. Army Washington Barracks 
Miner Analyst, Chicago Plant 

«• 4> »% »> 

Robinson Analyst, Detroit Plant 












Per cent 


Per cent. 


Loss With' 


Loss With 


out Arkady 


Arkady 


4.73 


3.84 


4.03 


2.38 


3 -49 


i.qg 


3.82 


2.16 


2.78 


2.18 


331 


2.70 


3.48 


2.31 


2.32 


1.50 


3.60 


2.1Q 


3.4 


2.05 


3.45 


2.17 


3.10 


1.80 


2.51 


1.26 


2.61 


2.01 


2.85 


0.83 


5.16 


3.41 


4.07 


i.oq 


3.34 


I.2Q 


3.60 


2.ig 


I.QO 


0.65 


3.6q 


1.64 


6.6 


4.3Q 


5.53 


1.24 


3.18 


o.gi 


5.66 


2.76 


5-77 


4.21 


3-55 


1.87 


6.35 


4.6 


7.28 


2.6q 


1-34 


1. 01 


2.45 


.7Q 


3.09 


1.07 


2.48 


.50 


4.88 


3.55 


4.23 


2.02 


6.34 


4.Q7 


5.56 


5.32 


4.10 


3.41 



loo BREAD FACTS 



The use of Arkady in bread making, 

Saves Yeast to the extent of 50 per cent of 
the amount usually required. 

Conserves Flour and Sugar : From 1 3^ to 2 
per cent of the flour and from 15 to 20 per 
cent of the sugar usually added to the dough 
batch are saved from destruction by the yeast 
into unnecessary leavening gas. 

Produces a Better Loaf with better flavor 
through a better fermentation in the dough, 
with more spring and life in the oven, resulting 
in a loaf of better texture and bloom. 

How these claims have made good with the 
bakers is shown in a letter from a scientific 
service for bakers to its clients in August, 
1920, as follows: 

"Our laboratory, our expert bakers, and all 
of our big list of clients who subscribe for our 
technical service, agree that ARKADY is one 
of the greatest discoveries of the age. 

I . has made its way by sheer merit, in the 
face of skepticism and, at times, of violent 
opposition. Today the largest and best in- 
formed bakers in the country use it. 



BREAD FACTS loi 



It DOES save yeast and it DOES save 
sugar. These savings more than offset its 
cost. 

But the big thing is that it makes better 
bread. 

We KNOW that ARKADY will give you 
better control of your fermentation, more 
spring in the oven, better texture, better flavor 
and bloom. 

Besides, it will save flour, sugar and yeast 
far beyond its cost. Here, then, is BETTER 
BREAD AT LESS COST/' 

At the Washington, D. C, barracks in the 
heat of the summer of 19 17 Arkady was given 
its first test in the Army. It was a severe test. 
The mixing was done by hand, the doughs 
raised and proved in a tent and baked in a 
portable field oven. Two doughs were carried 
through, one with the usual amount of yeast 
used in the Army formula, and one with one- 
half the usual amount of the yeast and one 
pound of Arkady per barrel of flour. When the 
loaves came from the oven the superiority of 
the Arkady loaf was outstanding. Baking 



I02 BREAD FACTS 



tests were made in seventeen more Army 
camps, and the result is told in a letter to the 
Company from a Lieutenant Colonel in charge 
of the Army baking, as follows: 

"I am glad to advise you that the Quarter- 
master General of the Army has instructed 
Durchasing Quartermasters to carry yeast food 
lereafter in the local commissaries for use in 
bread making in the Army Bakeries. 

In this connection, I wish to state to you 
that I have tried out, under my personal super- 
vision, the use of Arkady Yeast Food and 
found it came up to all that was claimed for it 
by its manufacturers. 

I take this occasion to express my apprecia- 
tion of the patriotic offer of the Ward Baking 
Company to allow the Government to pur- 
chase Arkady Yeast Food at the cost of manu- 
facture during the period of the existing war." 

After this the Government sent some three 
million pounds of Arkady over-seas. Each 
pound of this Arkady saved the shipment of 
around four pounds of the grain consumed in 
making a pound of yeast, protected two 
pounds of flour from fermentation loss and 
made a better loaf of bread for the soldier. In 



BREAD FACTS 103 



the Amaroc, an ofificial daily newspaper of the 
American Army, in its issue of May ist, 19 19, 
a writer on "How Good Bread Is Supplied For 
Army," states: 

"The month of April in the Coblenz bakery 
saw an average output which is maintained by 
the 1 2 other bakeries of the Third Army which 
cover all parts of the area. During the month, 
650,000 pounds of flour were used with other 
ingredients to produce 825,000 pounds or 
412,500 loaves of light and delectable white 
bread. With the huge amount of flour was 
used, 9,500 pounds of sugar; as many of salt 
and lard; and 3,200 pounds of yeast, to make 
bread for the troops of the Coblenz area. This 
large output also necessitated the use of 4,700 
pounds of Arkady Yeast Food." 

Another instance is in a letter from an Army 
Sergeant, as follows : 

"The way I knew about Arkady, I was in 
the Army and was a baker. I used hundreds 
of sacks of Arkady Yeast Food and we baked 
good bread and when I came home I wanted 
the same kind of bread. I wouldn't think of 
baker's bread without it." 



I04 BREAD FACTS 



Such, in brief, is the story of Arkady. As 
the letter from the scientific baking service 
company just quoted says : 

**It has made its way by sheer merit in the 
face of skepticism and, at times, a violent 
opposition." 

But all of this is over, and the process not 
only stands as one of the foremost advances 
in the science of baking, but a new policy in 
trade has been established. The Ward Baking 
Company is putting the well tried-out results 
of its research at the disposal of all of the 
bakers, not only to bakers in territories where 
it does not sell bread, but equally so in terri- 
tories where it sells bread on the basis of a 
reasonable profit; in fact, a far greater profit 
to those who use it than to those who make it. 

Private research must be financed. Patent 
protection is the reward which the Govern- 
ment has established for those who are willing 
to seek facts and apply them to useful purpose. 
The use in baking of the mineral salts con- 
tained in Arkady Yeast Food have been 
patented. The next chapter will be the 
establishment of the Arkady patent rights in 



B READ FACTS 105 



the courts, against that minority in the field of 
trade who, without sowing, without hoeing 
and cultivating, risking and waiting, are, 
nevertheless, ever present to make appro- 
priations to themselves after the usefulness of 
the invention has been established. 



lofe BREAD FACTS 

THE STORY OF AN AMERICAN 
BUSINESS SUCCESS 

THIS is a story of an 
American business 
success — a story of Ward's 
Bread and how, from a 
modest beginning in a small, 
old-fashioned building and 
an output of a few hundred 
loaves a day, the business 
has grown and grown until 
today Ward's products are 
made in fifteen huge, modern and sanitary 
bakeries with a combined daily output of over 
a million loaves of bread and a quarter of a 
million cakes. 

It was in 1849 that Hugh Ward arrived from 
Ireland and opened a bakery in a small build- 
ing on Broome Street, New York City, a 
photograph of which is reproduced at the top 
of this page. A few years later he decided to 
locate in Pittsburgh, Pa., which decision he 
carried out and in a short time was again 
engaged in the bread business and introducing 



BREAD FACTS 107 



to the people of the then "smoky city" Ward's 
Bread. 

At the early age of eight years, Robert B» 
Ward, the son of Hugh Ward, and founder and 
organizer of the present company, owing to 
the great scarcity of labor, caused by the civil 
war which was then in progress, was obliged to 
assist his father in the bake-shop and from 
that time up to the age of twenty-one years, 
less the time spent in public school, devoted 
himself to acquiring an expert and practical 
knowledge of bread making. 

A few years later he bought out a small 
bakery and started in the bread business for 
himself in that section of the city of Pittsburgh 
known as the "East End". In later years he 
associated with himself his youngest brother, 
George S. Ward, who had succeeded his father 
and knew what it was to bake and deliver 
bread before going to school each morning, and 
together they formed the firm of R. B. Ward 
8z Company. The company thus formed was 
remarkably successful and continued to pros- 
per until in 1897 its growth and expansion had 
reached such proportions that more capital 



io8 BREAD FACTS 



was required and so the firm of R. B. Ward 8z 
Company was merged into a company known 
as the Ward-Mackey Company. 

The business of the new company continued 
to increase and it was soon recognized that it 
would be necessary to enlarge the manufactur- 
ing facilities to keep up with the ever growing 
demand for Ward's Bread. The Wards, there- 
fore, decided to erect a modern, sanitary, 
bread making plant and this resolution was 
realized on July 7th, 1903, on which date their 
modern Pittsburgh bakery began the making 
of Ward's Bread. So far ahead of other bread 
making establishments was this new plant and 
so complete and up-to-date its equipment that 
today, seventeen years after its erection, it still 
stands in the front rank among model bread 
bakeries and a tribute to the enterprise and 
farseeing business intelligence of Mr. R. B. 
Ward and Mr. George S. Ward, the men who 
had the courage and the pioneer spirit to erect 
the first sanitary and scientific bakery in 
America. 

The popularity of Ward's Bread in Pitts- 
burgh increased by leaps and bounds and not 



BREAD FACTS loq 



long after the opening of the new Pittsburgh 
bakery it was decided that, since Ward's 
Bread had become the leading seller in the 
Pittsburgh district there was no reason why its 
quality, purity and cleanliness should not find 
equal favor among the people of other cities. 
And so, the next few years witnessed the 
further growth of the company and bakeries 
were built and successfullyoperated in the cities 
of Chicago, Cleveland, Boston and Providence. 
In 191 1 the Wards decided to return to New 
York where their father and grandfather had 
first begun business in this country. In that 
year they organized the Ward Baking Com- 
pany and erected in the cities of New York and 
Brooklyn two immense plants with a combined 
capacity of over a half million loaves a day. 
The opening of these wonderful bakeries and 
the announcement of the Wards that they 
proposed to supply the people of Greater New 
York with bread which surpassed all other 
kinds in quality and purity and above all, in 
cleanliness, was welcomed by the people of the 
metropolis, who immediately responded with 
liberal patronage as proof of their appreciation. 



no BREAD FACTS 

And true to their promise the Wards did 
make and offer for sale a loaf of bread — the 
famous Tip-Top bread — which in texture, 
taste and cleanliness, eating qualities and 
keeping qualities was far superior to any loaf 
ever bought by the people of the world's 
greatest city. 

Another distinctive feature of Ward's Tip- 
Top Bread was the method of delivering it. 
Horses, harness and stables had no place in the 
Ward way of delivering the ''staff of life". Since 
the bread was made amid surroundings of 
spotless cleanliness it was resolved to practice 
the same rule in the delivery of it and so every 
loaf was delivered in electric motor vehicles 
driven by clean cut, healthy salesmen, uni- 
formed and gloved in white. 

A short time later another huge plant was 
erected in Newark, N. J., to supply the people 
of that city and other New Jersey towns with 
Ward's Bread and this bakery, too, is a real 
Ward establishment and like the other bread 
making institutions bearing the Ward name, 
a veritable snow-white temple of cleanli- 
ness. 



BREAD FACTS iii 



Ward's Bread was made when the tallow 
candle was still a utility in almost every home. 
Long before the advent of the incandescent 
lamp, the telephone, the telegraph and even 
the sewing machine it was the daily bread of 
many American families. Ward wagons in 
those days rattled over cobble paved streets, 
passing flickering gas lamps on their early 
morning delivery of bread to the dealers. Day 
by day since that time it has grown in public 
favor. Today there are sixty-six kinds of 
Ward's bread and rolls and twenty-three kinds 
of Ward's Cakes, all made "the Ward Way," 
the "Clean Way," in fifteen modern bakeries 
located in the cities of New York, Brooklyn, 
Newark, Chicago, Cleveland, Pittsburgh, 
Boston, Providence and Baltimore. 

The rise of this great business from obscurity 
to the proud position it holds today is a monu- 
ment to the courage of those who founded it 
and carried it on to its present day supremacy 
and their constant maintaining of the product 
to the company's standard of "Quality, Purity 
and Cleanliness."